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Josiah N<- 



9'. LEIGH'S GUIDE 



TO THE 



LAKES AND MOUNTAINS 



OF 



CUMBERLAND, WESTMORLAND, 



AND 



LANCASHIRE; 



Mlustratetr teitf) 

A MAP OF THE COUNTRY, AND MAPS OF WINDERMERE, DERWENT WATER, 

BORROWDAI.E, ULLSWATER, GRASMERE, RYDAL WATER, 

AND LANGDALE. 



Cfnttr IStrttton, 

CAREFULLY REVISED AND CORRECTED. 





- + 



LONRCIn * 

PRINTED FOR LEIGH AND SON, 421. STRAND, 

(REMOVED FROM 18, STRAND.) 



MDCCCXXXV. 

Price Seven Shillings. 



LONDON: 

PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, 
Duke Street, Lambeth. 



5<E>43 



'OZ 



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CONTENTS. 



Page 

Preliminary Observations 1 

• I. London to Lancaster 3 

II. Lancaster to Ulverstone, over the Sands • . . 6 

III. Ulverstone to Fumess Abbey 11 

IV. Ulverstone to Bowness, by Coniston Water, Es- 

thwaite Water, and "Windermere 15 

V. Bowness to Ambleside, by Low Wood Inn . . .35 

Excursions from Low Wood Inn : — 

ToSkelgill 36 

To Troutbeck 37 

ToKirkstone 37 

Excursions from Ambleside : — 

To Langdale 41 

To Grasmere, under Loughrigg Fell .... 47 

To Loughrigg Tarn, over Loughrigg Fell « . 48 
To Loughrigg Tarn and Grasmere . . . .48 

To Ivy Crag 48 

To Round Knott 49 

To Wansfell Pike 49 

To Fairfield 49 

To Yewdale and Tilberthwaite 49 

VI. Ambleside to Keswick, by Rydal Water, Grasmere, 

Thirlemere, and the foot of Efelvellyn . . .51 

Excursions from Keswick : — 

On Derwent Water 72 

To Watendlath 72 

To St. John's Vale 73 

To the Druids' Temple 73 

To Skiddaw 74 

To Saddleback 77 



IV CONTENTS. 

Page 

VII. Keswick to Borrowdale, round Derwent Water . 78 
VIII. Keswick, round Bassenthwaite Water . • .84 
IX. Keswick to Borrowdale, Butterraere, and Crum- 

mock Water 87 

X. Keswick to Crummock Water and Buttermere, in 

a carriage . 95 

XI. Keswick to Wast Water, Ennerdale Water, Lowes 
Water, Crummock Water, and Buttermere, on 
horseback, in two days ....... 98 

XII. Keswick to Penrith 110 

Excursions from Penrith : — 

To Arthur' s Round Table, Mayburgh, Brougham 
Hall, Countess's Pillar, and Brougham Castle 1 13 
. To Giant's Cave ......... 114 

To Long Meg and her Daughters . * . .114 

To Lowther Castle. 115 

XIIL Penrith to Ullswater and Patterdale . . . .116 
XIV. Penrith to Hawes Water 126 



CONTENTS. 



SUPPLEMENT. 



Page 

1. Ambleside to Ullswater and Penrith, over Kirk- 

stone, and by Brothers' Water 129 

2. Bowness to Coniston Water and Ambleside . . .131 

3. Kendal to Ambleside 131 

4. Kendal to Bowness 132 

5. Kendal to Hawes Water, by Long Sleddale . . .133 

6. Kendal to Penrith 134 

7. Kendal to Ulverstone 135 

8. Keswick to Buttermere, Crummock Water, Lowes 

Water, Ennerdale Water, and Wast Water, in a 
carriage, in three days 135 

9. Keswick to Ullswater and Penrith, by Dacre. . .136 

10. Keswick to Ullswater and Penrith, by Patterdale . 136 

11. Lancaster to Kendal, by Bolton le Sands . . . .137 

12. Lancaster to Kendal, by Burton 141 

13. Lancaster to Kendal, by Kirkby Lonsdale . . . 141 

14. Lancaster to Ulverstone, avoiding the Sands . . .142 

15. Penrith to Carlisle 143 

16. Penrith to Hawes Water, and return by Pooley 

Bridge 145 

17. Pooley Bridge to Hawes Water 145 

18. Ulverstone to Bowness 145 

19. Whitehaven to Keswick 146 

20. Workington to Keswick 148 

Table of the Heights of Mountains and Lakes in Lanca- 
shire, Westmorland, and Cumberland, taken from 

the level of the Sea 149 

Plan of a Tour to the Lakes from Lancaster . . . .152 

Kendal 153 

Penrith 153 

Glossary, or Explanation of Terms used in the vicinity of 
the Lakes either by themselves or in connexion 
with other words 155 

Index 156 



" In truth, a more pleasing Tour than these Lakes hold out to men 
of leisure and curiosity, cannot be devised. We penetrate the Glaciers, 
traverse the Rhone and the Rhine, whilst our domestic lakes of Ulls- 
water, Keswick, and Windermere exhibit scenes in so sublime a 
style, — with such beautiful colourings of rock, wood, and water, — 
backed with so tremendous a disposition of mountains, that if they do 
not fairly take the lead of all the views of Europe, yet they are indis- 
putably such as no English traveller should leave behind him." 

Cumberland's Dedication to Romney. 



a 



As my object is to reconcile a Briton to the scenery of his own 
country, though not at the expense of truth, I am not afraid of assert- 
ing that, in many points of view, our Lakes also are much more 
interesting than those of the Alps." . 

Wordsworth. 



PREFACE 



TO THE 



THIRD EDITION. 



It is a constant subject of surprise to foreigners 
that Englishmen, who are proverbially patriotic and 
locomotive, should be tempted to explore every country 
in preference to their own. That from which they 
are separated by the ocean exercises an irresistible 
influence over them. The charms which are so 
profusely scattered throughout the United Kingdom, 
seem contained within a sealed book, although they 
can in reality be enjoyed with less inconvenience and 
expense than those ultramarine wonders, upon which 
travellers expatiate with such poetical fervour. It 
would certainly seem more in unison with a strong 
love of country, to worship Nature at her varied 
shrines in Britain, before bowing to foreign idols ; but 
it is a portion of the creed of erring cosmopolitism to 
affect an indifference to the claims of a native land. 

Amidst the various claims which the numerous 
beauties of the British empire advance with modest 
solicitude, the claims of those portions of England 
which embrace the lakes of Westmorland and Cum- 
berland stand pre-eminent. They appeal alike to the 
eye, the feelings, and the fancy ; they teem with the 
varieties of majesty and loveliness. If they astound 
not with alpine masses clad in eternal snows, with 



Vlll 



PREFACE. 



fearful abysses which torture the shrinking vision, 
nor with azure lakes, whose banks glitter with 
palaces,, they present charms which affect the mind in 
a more harmonious and equally perduring manner : 
if they linger in the imagination less to electrify than 
to soothe, they achieve the great end of retrospection, 
which is rather a gentle passage of mild emotions 
than a series of abrupt and powerful transitions. 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES 



OF 



CUMBERLAND, LANCASHIRE, 



AND 



WESTMORLAND, 



The lakes are usually visited between May and 
October ; but more particularly from the end of June 
to the end of August. The length of the days during 
this period is favourable for excursions, and the 
mountains are adorned with all the beauty of summer 
foliage. Those persons,, however, who prefer the 
green hues of spring and the olive tints of autumn, 
will visit the lakes either in May or September. 
The pedestrian will select these months on account of 
the coolness of the weather, and the artist will choose 
the latter ; as the landscape is then more rich and 
diversified than at any other part of the year. 

The accommodations for tourists are excellent. 
The inns are clean and comfortable, the charges rea- 
sonable, and the guides generally very civil and atten- 
tive. Boats, cars, horses, and other means of con- 
veyance are to be found at all the principal places. 
The price usually charged for a post-chaise and pair 
of horses is Is. 3d. a mile, and for a car and single 

B 



Z ROUTES. 

horse ] s. per mile. The post-boy or driver expects 
about 3d. a mile. The roads have been very much 
improved within a few years, and are now in an excel- 
lent state. 

There are two principal routes for persons visiting 
the lakes, either to commence at Penrith and termi- 
nate at Lancaster, or vice versa. Tourists from the 
north will prefer the former, and those from the 
south the latter route, which is also the best for view- 
ing the scenery. The lakes will then be seen in the 
following order : — 

Coniston Water, Bassenthwaite Water, 

ESTHWAITE OR EaSTHWAITE BuTTERMERE WATER, 

Water, Crummock Water, 

Windermere Water, Wast Water, 

Rydal Water, Ennerdale Water, 

Grasmere Water, Lowes Water, 

Leathes or Thirlmere Water, Ulls Water, 
Derwent Water, Hawes Water. 

We shall,, therefore, suppose the tourist to be set- 
ting out from London for Lancaster, and afterwards 
visiting the ruins of Furness Abbey, as the first object 
of interest. 



I. From LONDON to LANCASTER. 







Miles. 


Barnet . . . 


- . 


11 


St. Alban's . . 


• 


21 


Dunstable . 


. 


33J 


Woburn . • 


• 


42f 


Newport Pagnell 


« 


51* 


Northampton . 


• 


Mh 


Market Harborough 


83£ 


Leicester 


• 


98£ 


Loughborough . 


• 


109f 


Derby . • 


• 


1261 


Ashbourn • 


• 


140 


Leek. 


. 


155 


Macclesfield 


• 


167$ 


Stockport . 


• 


179f 


Manchester . 


• 


186 



Bolton .... 1971 



Chorley. ... 209 



Preston . 



. 218J 



Garstang . . . 229J 
Lancaster. . . . 2401 



I mis. 
Commercial, Green Man, Red Lion. 
Verulam Arms, Angel, Woolpack, 

White Hart. 
Crown, Sugar Loaf. 
George, Bedford Arms, Magpie, Cock, 

Wheatsheaf. 
Saracen's Head, Swan. 
Angel, George, Peacock. 
Three Swans, Angel. 
Blue Bell, Three Crowns, Crane, 

White Hart. 
Anchor, Bull's Head. 
Bell, George, New Inn, King's Head. 
Blackmoor's Head, Green Man. 
George, Buck. 

Macclesfield Arms, Old Angel. 
Bulkeley Arms, Horse Shoe, White 

Lion. 
Royal Hotel, Albion, Bull's Head, 

Spread Eagle, Commercial, Star, 

Mosley Arms, Swan, 
Bridge, Boar's Head, Commercial 

Swan, Ship. 
Royal Oak, Bull, Bull's Head. 
Black Bull, Three Legs of Mutton, 

Red Lion. 
Eagle and Child, Royal Oak. 
Commercial and Royal Oak, King's 

Arms, White Hart, New Inn. 



b2 



4 DESCRIPTION OF LANCASTER. 

LANCASTER, 

The capital of Lancashire, is seated on the Lune, at 
some distance from its entrance into the sea, vessels 
of large burthen not being able to come within six 
miles of the town. The streets are well paved, and 
the houses generally well built. Over the river is a 
handsome bridge, and along the quay is a fine range 
of warehouses. The population amounts to 12,613; 
two members. 

The castle occupies a commanding situation, and 
is in itself an imposing structure. The greater part 
of it is modern, but portions of the edifice erected in 
the reign of Edward III. stilUexist. At the top is a 
large square keep, called John of Gaunt's Chair, 
from which there is a most extensive and beautiful 
prospect. 

Contiguous to the castle are the County Courts 
and Shire Hall, which are remarkably handsome, 
built from designs by Mr. Harrison, and near them 
stands the church, a Gothic structure, containing 
several monuments. 

The Town Hall or Sessions is a handsome stone 
building of the Doric order, erected from designs by 
Major Jarrat. It contains portraits of Lord Nelson 
and Mr. Pitt, by Lonsdale. 

The new bridge, by which Lancaster is approached 
from the north, is an elegant structure of five arches, 
designed by Mr. Harrison. It is 549 feet in length. 

From the Work-house Hill there is a fine view of 
the town and the castle, as well as of the surrounding 
country. 



DESCRIPTION OF LANCASTER. 5 

The Savings Bank, which is in New Street, is a 
neat stone building. 

The Lancaster Society of Arts is situated on Castle 
Hill, occupying the building formerly the Dispensary ; 
this being one of the earliest provincial establishments 
for the encouragement of the Fine Arts started in 
England, deserves honourable mention. A committee 
is annually elected from the body of the subscribers. 
This society already possesses many fine modern 
w T orks purchased of the respective artists, which are 
shown gratis, on application at the gallery. 

There are several other public buildings in Lan- 
caster, but none of them particularly remarkable. It 
carries on a considerable trade in coal and limestone 
by means of its canal, which is conveyed over the 
Lune, about a mile from this place, by an aqueduct- 
bridge. Many small ships are built here. A fine 
steam-packet leaves Lancaster for Liverpool, about 
three times a week. 



6 



II. From LANCASTER to ULVERSTONE, 

OVER THE SANDS. 

Miles. 

Lancaster to Hest Bank . . . . . 3J 
Hest Bank to Lancaster Sands • • • J 

Lancaster Sands to Kent's Bank • • 9 

Kent's Bank to Allithwaite . . . • 1 

Allithwaite to Flookboro' . • • . 1 J 

Flookboro' to Leven Sands 1 

Leven Sands to Ulverstone • • • • 5 

21 

In order to reach the sands when the tide is out, 
the tourist should set out from Lancaster at the 
same time as the Ulverstone " Over-Sands Convey- 
ance/' which goes every day. The regular coach goes 
round by Milnthorpe and Newby Bridge every day* 
Crossing the sands in the summer season, in company 
with the regular guides, is seldom attended with any 
danger ; but those who want courage to venture upon 
them, may take the route to Ulverstone, described in 
the Supplement, No. 13. 

Hest Bank is a small bathing-place, pleasantly situ- 
ated on Morecambe Bay. The tourist then arrives 
at the 

LANCASTER SANDS. 

The tract across these sands varies from 7 to 1 1 miles 
in length, according as the sea approaches to, or re- 
cedes from, the shore. The average distance may be 
considered about 9 miles. Guides are appointed by 
government to conduct travellers through the rivers 
Keer and Kent, which pass over the sands to the 



LANCASTER SANDS. 7 

sea. They receive but a small salary, and it is usual 
for each passenger to give them a few halfpence. 
The guide at the Keer is on foot, and at the Kent on 
horseback. The latter is called The Carter, the 
family of that name having fulfilled the office for a 
long period. 

On a fine day nothing can be more delightful than 
a ride over the Lancaster Sands, which command 
views of the whole coast of Morecambe Bay from Peel 
Castle to the shore beyond Lancaster. On the right 
is a bold and deeply indented shore, with richly 
wooded valleys stretching far into the country ; and, 
on the left, Hey sham Point, with the village hanging 
on its side, rises abruptly. To the right also appear 
Warton Craig and Arnside Fells, and far beyond them 
the broad head of the lofty Ingleborough. Castle 
Heads, a pyramidal hill rising above the station at 
Kendal, is also visible, as well as Arnside Tower, for- 
merly a mansion of the Stanley family. Near the 
latter is a grey rock, called Silverdale Nab, between 
which and the Cartmel coast the Kent rolls towards 
the sea. At the mouth of the estuary are two wooded 
islands, and at the head, beneath a hill, are seen the 
village and church of Heversham. The Cartmel 
shore presents hills covered with woods, and backed 
by the lofty chain of the Westmorland and Cumber- 
land mountains. 

Kent's Bank. At the foot of a hill 3 miles from 
this spot, and on the west shore of the Kent, is the 
mansion of Castlehead. 

Allithwaite. About 2 miles distant is the pleasant 
town of CARTMEL, containing 400 inhabitants. It 



8 LEVEN SANDS. 

is principally supported by persons visiting the mineral 
springs in its vicinity. The church, formerly attached 
to a priory, is adorned with carved work and monu- 
ments. There is also a free grammar school, and 
in the vicinity are several villas. The Prior of Cart- 
mel was formerly charged with the office of guide 
across the sands, but since the Dissolution it has been 
held by patent of the Duchy of Lancaster. 

Flookboro was once a market-town. On the right 
beyond it is Holker Hall, the seat of Lord George 
Cavendish. It contains a good collection of pictures, 
and is surrounded by a fine park. — We then reach the 

LEVEN SANDS. 

The track across is about 3 miles in length. The 
passage of the Leven is rather more dangerous than 
that of the Kent, as the sands are frequently shifting. 
The guide here is on horseback. The views obtained 
in crossing are very picturesque : the coast is deeply 
indented, and the peninsulas beautifully fringed with 
wood. On one side of the river appear the Cartmel 
Fells and the woods of Holker Hall; and, on the 
other, the Ulverstone Fells, clothed with verdure. 
The view up the river is terminated by the mountains 
which surround Coniston Water and Windermere. 
Towards the south is Chapel Island, at the mouth of 
the Leven, and on the Ulverstone coast appear the 
grounds of Conishead Priory and Bardsea, with ts 
rocks and woods. 



C0N1SHEAD PRIORY. 9 

ULVERSTONE 

Is a neatly built town, situated on the declivity of a 
small range of hills, sloping towards the south-east. 
It is rather more than a mile from the river Leven, 
with which it communicates by a broad canal. Ul- 
verstone may be considered as the capital of the dis- 
trict of Furness, the weekly market on Thursday hav- 
ing been long removed from Dalton to this place. 
The neighbouring fells abound with slate, limestone, 
and iron ore. The inhabitants are engaged in the 
export of these articles and in the manufacture of 
cotton-twist, hats, canvass, and checks. The town has 
two churches, a theatre, assembly rooms, and a 
library. A national school, in the Ellers, has lately 
been established, and affords education to about five 
hundred children. From the hill beyond the church 
there is a fine view of the town and the adjacent sands. 
The population amounts to 4,876. 

There are two good inns, the Sun and the Braddyl 
Arms. 

A " Conveyance" goes every day to Lancaster, 
over the sands, and there is another round by Miln- 
thorpe every day. 

In the vicinity are several gentlemen's seats : the 
most remarkable is that of Conishead Priory, the 
seat of the Braddyl family, 2 miles distant ; of which 
Mr. West says, " it is a great omission in the curious 
traveller to be in Furness and not to see so wonderfully 
pretty a place, to which Nature has been so profuse in 
noble gifts, and where Art has lent its best assistance, 
under the regulation of an elegant fancy and a refined 

b5 



10 WALNEY ISLAND. 

taste." The house is now being rebuilt of stone in 
the Gothic style, from designs by Mr. Wyatt, and 
when completed, will form a very handsome residence. 
It has an elegant conservatory, and in the park is a 
pretty hermitage. 

About half-way between Ulverstone and Conishead 
Priory is Swarthmoor Hall, a farm-house, which 
was occupied for some years by George Fox, the 
founder of the Society of Friends, who married the 
widow of Judge Fell, to whom the estate belonged. 
The bedstead on which he was accustomed to sleep 
is preserved here. A quarter of a mile distant is the 
Meeting-house which he built, and which is still 
used by the Friends of the neighbourhood. 

At Whitrigs, 3 miles west of Ulverstone, on the 
Dalton road, are some of the largest iron-mines in 
England. The ore is obtained by driving levels into 
the mountain. It is found in a limestone stratum 
mixed with a variety of spars. 

Walney Island, situated about 9 miles south-west 
of Ulverstone, is remarkable for its immense numbers 
of wild-fowl, sea-gulls, &c, and immense rabbit-war- 
rens. In some parts they are so numerous, that the 
visiter cannot move a yard without treading on their 

egg*- 



11 



III. From ULVERSTONE to FURNESS 

ABBEY. 

Miles. 
Ulverstone to Dalton ...... 5 

Daltcm to Furness ....... 1 

Return to Ulverstone ...... 6 

12 

DALTON 

Is an ancient little town, which was once the capital 
of Furness, and a place of considerable importance. 
It has now little more than 700 inhabitants. The 
church and the remains of the castle are situated on 
a bold ascent. All that now exists of the latter is a 
tower, in a chamber of which the abbot of Furness 
held his secular court. It was afterwards used as a 
jail for debtors. • The present churchyard and the 
site of the castle are supposed to have formed part of 
a castellum, constructed by Agricola. Romney, the 
portrait-painter, was born at a place called Beck-side, 
in Dalton, and was buried in the churchyard ; al- 
though a tablet to his memory is to be found in Ken- 
dal Church, owing to the refusal of the steward of the 
Earl of Burlington to permit the memory of this cele- 
brated artist to be perpetuated in Dalton Church. 

Beneath the brow of the hill on which the church and 
tower of Dalton stand, a brook flows through a narrow 
valley that winds about the distance of a mile to 



12 FURXESS ABBEY. 

FURNESS ABBEY, 

The property of Lord G. A. Cavendish, Earl of Bur- 
lington. These magnificent remains are situated in a 
close glen called the Vale of Nightshade, or, more 
literally, from its ancient title Bekansgill, the Glen of 
Deadly Nightshade, that plant formerly abounding in 
the neighbourhood. Its romantic gloom and seques- 
tered privacy particularly adapted it to the austerities 
of monastic life ; and in the most retired part of it, 
King Stephen, while Earl of Mortaign and Bulloign, 
founded, in 1127, the monastery of Furness, and en- 
dowed it so richly, that it was second only to Foun- 
tains Abbey in Yorkshire. It was dedicated to St. 
Mary, and received a colony of monks from the mo- 
nastery of Savigny, in Normandy, who were called 
Grey Monks, from their dress of that colour, till they 
became Cistercians, and with the severe rules of St. 
Bernard, adopted a white habit, which they retained 
till the Dissolution in 1537. 

The ruins are approached by a small wooden gate,, 
forming the entrance to the immediate precincts of 
the abbey, an area said to contain sixty -five acres. 
On the left, just within this gate, is a small modern- 
built manor-house, beyond which a full view is ob- 
tained of the abbey, having a lawn in front, and 
enclosed on each side by noble trees. Within a few 
years, the appearance of the ruins has been very much 
improved, by removing the rubbish with which they 
were encumbered. 

The principal parts of the abbey remaining are the 
school-house, the arched roof of which is still perfect ; 



FURNESS ABBEY. 13 

the refectory, formerly a noble hall, along the centre 
of which was a row of columns, supporting the roof; 
the chapter-house, still bearing traces of its rich sculp- 
ture ; and the church, the great window of which forms 
a conspicuous object. In the church are four ancient 
recumbent statues, and four stalls, in which the priests 
occasionally sat during the service ; there are also 
numerous fragments of sculpture. 

The abbey is built of a pale red stone, dug from 
the neighbouring rocks, now changed by time and 
weather to a tint of dusky brown, which accords well 
w T ith the hues of plants and shrubs that every where 
emboss the mouldering arches. 

The finest view of the ruin is from the hill opposite 
the east window, through which are seen, in perspec- 
tive, the choir, distant arches, and remains of the nave 
of the abbey, backed by the woods. This perspective 
of the ruin is said to be 287 feet in length; the choir 
part of it is in width only 28 feet inside, but the nave 
is 70; the walls are 54 feet high and 5 in thickness. 
Southward from the choir extend the pillars and 
arcades of some chapels, now laid open to the day, 
as well as the chapter-house and the cloisters. Be- 
yond these, and quite detached, is the school-house., 
the only part of the monastery that still has a roof. 

From the rising ground of Hamcoat, one mile W. 
of Furness Abbey, there is a very fine prospect. On 
a clear day, it embraces the whole length of the 
Isle of Man, with part of Anglesea, and the moun- 
tains of Caernarvon, Merionethshire, Derbyshire and 
Flintshire, shadowing the opposite horizon of the 
channel. 



14 FURNESS ABBEY. 

Returning from Dalton, the tourist may pass through 
Urswick and over Birkrigg Common, by Bardsea and 
Conishead Priory to Ulverstone. The view from the 
summit of Birkrigg is extremely grand, particularly at 
high water. Hence, on a clear day, may be seen the 
whole extent of Morecambe Bay and the coast of 
Wales, above which Snowdon forms a conspicuous 
object. To the N.E. appear Ulverstone and the Fur- 
ness Hills, and in the distance are seen the mountains 
of Cumberland and the lofty Ingleborough. 



15 



IV. From ULVERSTONE to BOWNESS, 

BY CONISTON WATER, ESTHWAITE WATER, AND 

WINDERMERE. 

Miles 



Ulverstone to Lowick Bridge . 


• • 


• 54 


Lowick Bridge to Nibthwaite 


• • 


• i* 


Nibthwaite to Coniston Waterhead . 


. n 


Waterhead to Hawkshead • 


• • 


. 3 


Hawkshead to Sawrey • • 


• • 


. 2i 






2 




. U 






23J 



From Ulverstone to Coniston Water the road passes 
along a narrow vale, over which are scattered several 
farms. Four miles from Ulverstone the lake and 
vale of Coniston form a splendid landscape. At the 
head of the lake is seen the Old Man, having Wether- 
lam on its right, and Walney Scar on its left ; whilst 
n the distance, to the left, appear the Scawfell Pikes, 
and to the right, Helvellyn and Fairfield. In the 
foreground, dark rocks frown over the surface of the 
lake. 

Half a mile further is Lowick Hall, once the seat 
of a family of that name, but now occupied as a farm- 
house. Behind it are rocky mountains, with a few 
stripes of heath. Just beyond, on the left of the road, 
is Lowick Chapel. 

At Lowick Bridge, the tourist crosses the Crake, 
which is the outlet for the waters of Coniston. Half 
a mile beyond it are iron works. 

Near Nibthwaite Coniston Water opens in full 



16 CONISTON. 

view. The best prospect of it is to be obtained from a 
very small hill on the left of the road, about a quarter 
of a mile beyond this village. 

The scenery improves as the road passes along the 
eastern bank of the lake, and approaches its northern 
extremity. One pretty bay is succeeded by another : 
the road is sometimes on the margin of the lake, but 
generally a little distance from it ; it is frequently lost 
in wood, out of which there are, however, occasional 
glimpses and more extended views through groups and 
fringings of single trees. The morning is the best 
time for this ride. In the afternoon, if the sun shines, 
much of the effect is lost by the change of light. 

Coniston Waterhead Inn is beautifully situated 
on the shore at the head of the lake, of which it cam- 
mands a fine view. Here boats may be hired, as well 
as a chaise and horses. In a stream, at a short dis- 
tance, the proprietor of the inn usually keeps some 
char for the gratification of visiters. This fish is only 
in high season, however, during the winter months. 

Above the inn is the villa of Waterhead, situated 
upon a fine elevation, and commanding a charming 
view of the lake with its pretty shores. From the 
house and grounds the Man Mountain forms an inte- 
resting object. 

From this place, excursions may be made, not only 
on Coniston Water, but also to the Vales of Yewdale 
and Tilberthwaite, which afford fine views. These, 
however, can only be visited on horseback or on foot. 

From Waterhead Inn, a complete tour of the lake 
may be made in a carriage, by the following route : 
Pass Coniston and Torver churches, and a little be- 



CONISTON WATER. 17 

yond the latter, turn to the left, and proceed by Oxen 
Houses to Water Yeat, near which, cross the Crake 
at Bowdray Bridge, to Nibthwaite ; or go from Water 
Yeat to Lowick Bridge, and thence to Nibthwaite, 
from which place to Waterhead the route by the east 
side of the lake has been already pointed out. By 
Bowdray Bridge, the tour will be about 14 miles, and 
bv Lowick Bridge, nearly 17 miles. 

CONISTON WATER 

Is sometimes called Thurston Water. It is six 
miles long, and three-quarters of a mile at its greatest 
breadth. Its greatest depth is 27 fathoms, and it 
abounds with trout and char : the latter are larger 
than those of the other lakes. 

The shores are beautifully indented, and present, 
in succession, several small bays. Both banks are 
adorned with woods, interspersed with meadows and 
patches of rocky common. Near the foot or southern 
extremity are several finely wooded and rocky pro- 
montories of great beauty. Close to the eastern shore 
are two islands, one of which, covered with firs, is 
called Peel Island. 

Mrs. Radcliffe thus accurately and elegantly de- 
scribes Coniston Water. " This lake appeared to us 
one of the most charming we had seen. From the 
sublime mountains, which bent round its head, the 
heights on either side decline towards the south into 
waving hills, that form its shore, and often stretch, in 
long sweeping points, into the water, generally covered 
with tufted woods, but sometimes with the tender ver- 



18 MAN MOUNTAIN. 

dure of pasturage. The tops of these woods were just 
embrowned with autumn, and contrasted well with 
other slopes, rough and heathy, that rose above, or 
fell beside them to the water's brink and added force 
to the colouring, which reddish tints of decaying fern, 
the purple bloom of heath, and the bright golden 
gleams of broom, spread over these banks. Their 
hues, the graceful undulations of the marginal hills 
and bays, the richness of the woods, the solemnity of 
the northern fells, and the deep repose that pervades 
the scene, where only now and then a white cottage or 
a farm lurks among the trees, are circumstances which 
render Coniston Lake one of the most interesting, and 
perhaps the most beautiful, of any in the country." 

The chief feeders of Coniston Water are Black Beck 
and Coniston Beck, both entering on its western 
side. 

The principal mountains rise towards the head and 
on the western side of the lake. The highest point is 
called the 

Old Man, or Man Mountain. 

This is said to be 2,580 feet above the level of the sea. 
Upon the summit, where there was formerly a beacon, 
are three heaps of stones, called the Old Man, his 
Wife, and Son. The top is covered with moss, and 
extends about half a mile in length and a quarter 
in breadth. Hence the prospect is very extensive, 
particularly towards the south. In this direction are 
seen Coniston Water, the shores of Lancashire, part 
of the coast of Cumberland, the Isles of Walney and 



HAWKSHEAD. 19 

Man, and, on a fine day, Snowdon, with the moun- 
tains in its vicinity. To the north appear Scawfell 
and Bowfell, and in the distance the loftiest part of 
Skiddaw. From this spot also may be seen a por- 
tion of Windermere, and two tarns, called Low Water 
and Levers Water. 

The shortest mode of reaching the summit of the 
Old Man is to commence at the Black Bull, near 
Coniston Church. The road is very steep and angu- 
lar. The copper-mines, near Levers Water, and 
the slate-quarries, above Low Water, may then be 
seen in the ascent. Levers Water is about a mile in 
circumference, and is surrounded, except on the south 
side, by steep and craggy heights. Low Water is 
rather smaller. 

Leaving Coniston Waterhead, the tourist ascends a 
steep hill, from which there are good views of Coniston 
Water, the valley, and the surrounding heights. The 
scene is rich in wood and water, and in diversity of 
mountain line it is rarely exceeded. The deep and 
solitary windings of Yewdale appear particularly inte- 
resting. The road divides about a mile from Water- 
head, the left leading to Ambleside, and the right to 
Hawkshead. A good view of Esthwaite Water is 
obtained on descending the hill towards Hawkshead. 
The fells of Ambleside and Rydal are here in full 
view, with a portion of the head of Windermere. 

HAWKSHEAD 

Is a small and ancient town, with about 797 inhabi- 
tants. It is situated at the foot of a mountain near the 



20 ESTHWAITE WATER. 

end of the beautiful narrow vale in which lies Esth- 
waite Water. The church is seated on the front of an 
eminence commanding a prospect of the lake and the 
whole valley. Many of the houses are old and oi 
singular construction, and would form good subjects 
for the artist. The views in the vicinity are very fine, 

Hawkshead has a good school, founded by Arch- 
bishop Sandys, who was born at this place. The 
Town House was erected chiefly by the subscriptions 
of gentlemen who had been educated here. 

Inn. — The Red Lion, where a post-chaise is kept. 

One mile distant, on the direct road towards Am- 
bleside, are the remains of Hawkshead Hall, whicl 
the Abbot of Furness kept possession of by stationing 
monks, who performed duty in the vicinity. Over the 
entrance is the room where the bailiff of Hawksheac 
administered justice in the name of the abbot. It ii 
now occupied by a farmer. 

Two miles north-east from Hawkshead, on the 
right of the road to Ambleside, is Blelham Tarn, z 
small lake, from which a stream passes into Winder- 
mere by Low Wray. It has some good hedge-rov 
trees on its south-west side; there are no striking 
features near its margin, but the grand mountains o 
Rydal and Ambleside swell finely over it. 

From Hawkshead the road proceeds along the sid< 
of 

ESTHWAITE or EASTHWAITE WATER. 

This placid lake is two miles in length and half a milt 
in breadth. It is surrounded by a good carriage-road 
and over the outlet by which it discharges itself is i 



SAWREY. 2; 



— I 



narrow stone bridge. Two peninsulas, fringed with 
trees and coppice-wood, and cultivated to their sum- 
mits, contribute much to its beauty. The principal is 
that which projects from the western shore. The 
mountains of Langdale, Grasmere, and Eydal are 
seen to great advantage from the shores of this lake ; 
and the town of Hawkshead, with its elevated church, 
is a pleasant feature. 

Belmont, about a mile north of Esthwaite Water, 
is a handsome mansion, commanding a fine view of 
the lake, having Glimmers How for its remote dis- 
tance. It was built about 1780, by the Rev. Reginald 
Braithwaite. Esthwaite Lodge, on the west side, 
and Lake Bank, on the east, are also pleasing villas. 

Near the upper end of Esthwaite Water, or rather 
in an adjoining pool, is an island containing two 
perches of land, which is said floats about by the 
wind. 

The fish found here are perch, pike, eels, and trout. 
There are no char, though this lake is connected with 
Windermere, in which that fish abounds. 

The scenery between Hawkshead and Sawrey is 
good : the irregular figure of the lake, its pretty en- 
closures, woods, and buildings, with the Langdale 
Pikes in the distance, make many charming sylvan 
pictures. 

The road then passes through the village of Sawrey, 
and ascending the hill which separates Esthwaite 
Water from Windermere, affords the tourist a fine 
view of the Coniston and Langdale mountains. The 
descent of this eminence' commands a prospect of a 
considerable portion of Windermere. 



22 FERRY HOUSE. 

The Perry House is a good inn, delightfully- 
situated on the shore near the centre of Windermere, 
and almost surrounded by a grove of aged sycamores. 
From this situation there are three distinct views. 
The first, looking down the lake by Berkshire Island 
and Storrs, to Rawlinson's Nab ; the second, towards 
the north-east, looks over Belle Isle upon Hill Bell ; 
beyond the two points projecting from the island and 
from the parsonage lands, appears water; and between 
these points, a fir island : Rayrigg is seen over it, and 
in that reach of the lake beyond the points, the man- 
sion in Belle Isle towers above the trees. The third 
view, looking northward, is from the spot where one 
of the carriage ferry-boats is usually moored ; the 
trees on the right rise from Crow Holme, with a little 
peep of Belle Isle beyond it; opposite to which, 
Furness Fell swells boldly from the water, the banks 
of which are adorned with trees. One of the Lily of 
the Valley islands forms a pretty object, and far 
beyond it is seen a part of Wansfell, with the woods 
about Dove Nest. In the remote distance are the 
Rydal mountains and Scandale Fell. 

Here post-horses, a car, and boats are kept. Car- 
riages and horses can cross by the ferry-boat. The 
charges made for conveyance are, Passengers, 2d. 
each; Post-chaise, 3s. ; Gentleman's Chariot, 3s. 6e£ ; 
Carriage, 4s., besides a gratuity to the ferryman. No 
charge, however, is made for the return of the vehicles 
on the same day. 



THE STATION HOUSE. 23 



THE STATION HOUSE 

Stands upon a hill above the Ferry House. It was 
erected by Mr. Braithwaite, from whom it was pur- 
chased by the late J. C. Curwen, Esq. It is sur- 
rounded by an enclosure,, at the entrance of which is a 
cottage, occupied by the keeper, who will show the 
visiter to the building, by an excellent path. This 
path is bordered by oak, ash, and birch-trees, springing 
from the sides and out of the fissures of picturesque 
rocks, to which have been added, hollies, laurels, and 
other evergreens, as well as an abundance of flowers. 
On this ascent the eye is not allowed to roam beyond 
the enclosing wall ; for this is a local sort of beauty, 
and cannot come in competition with any of its neigh- 
bouring scenes, or with the distant mountains. 

The Station House consists of two stories ; the lower 
occupied by dining and other rooms, and the upper by 
a drawing-room, from which there are splendid views, 
embracing nearly the whole extent of the lake, from 
Newby Bridge almost up to Ambleside. The windows 
contain stained glass of various colours, through which 
the scenery has a pleasing effect. This is one of the 
most delightful spots near Windermere; but to be 
enjoyed in perfection, it should be visited in the after- 
noon or evening, when the sun shines. 

In front, Berkshire, formerly called Rampsholme 
Island, clothed with wood, presents its entire length. 
To the left, the Ferry Point, closing with the wooded 
isle of Crow Holme, forms a fine promontory, behind 
which is a semicircular bay, bordered by sloping hills, 



24 WINANDERMERE. 

covered with verdure. An extent of water, 12 miles 
in circumference, spreads towards the north, inter- 
sected by promontories, or studded with islands. The 
eastern view presents all that is beautiful, grand, and 
sublime. In front are seen the tops of the houses 
and the church of Bowness, above which rise Banerigg 
and Orrest Head. Troutbeck Park comes next to 
view, and above that are seen Hill Bell, Fairfield, and 
Rydal. Towards the south, and from the western 
shore, a promontory, called Rawlinson's Nab, juts out 
into the lake ; and opposite to it is the Storrs, another 
wooded promontory. Over the former, the lake spreads 
out into a magnificent sheet of water, and following* 
the winding shore, to the south, seems lost behind a 
jutting rock on the east side. Above Park and Lan- 
den Nab, the summits of other distant mountains close 
the scene. 

Returning from the Station, the tourist should visit 
Harrow Farm House, from which there is also a 
delightful view of the lake. It is situated on the side 
of the lake opposite to Belle Isle. 

Leaving the Ferry House, the tourist may either 
hire a boat to visit Belle Isle and Rawlinson's Nab, 
and afterwards proceed to Bowness ; or he may go by 
the ferry-boat direct to Bow r ness, and there hire a 
boat to survey the lake. The prices charged for the 
passage at the ferry have already been mentioned. 

i 
WINDERMERE, or WINANDERMERE, 

Is the largest of the English lakes. Measured down 
the middle, from north to south, it is 10 h miles in 



windermerk. 25 

length, but by the road, along its east bank, it is 2 or 
3 miles more. Its breadth varies considerably, and 
at the broadest part is nearly 2 miles. The depth 
also varies from 5 to 37 fathoms. The circumference 
of the lake is about 26 miles, and the area comprises 
between 4,000 and 5,000 acres. 

Windermere is usually said to belong" to West- 
morland, although the whole of the western, and a 
considerable portion of the eastern shore, are in Lan- 
cashire. 

The principal feeders of the lake are the Rothay 
and the Brathay. 

The Rothay rises in the mountains near Wythburn ; 
on the descent from which it is joined by several 
mountain-torrents; the principal is that from Ease- 
dale Tarn ; it then passes through the lakes of Gras- 
mere and Rydal, and, in its mazy course through the 
continuous vales of Rydal and Ambleside, receives the 
tributary streams of Rydal, Scandale Beck, and Stock 
Gill. At a place called the Landing its waters join 
the Brathay, and in little more than half a mile, the 
united streams enter Windermere at its head. 

The Brathay has two sources : one rises in that 
part of Great Langdale called Langdale-head, from 
which it runs in a course of about seven miles to Elter 
Water ; the other rises at the three county stones on 
Wrynose, whence it descends to Fellfoot ; and, after 
having passed through Little Langdale Tarn, unites 
with the branch from Great Langdale in Elter Water. 
The stream then passes Skelwith Bridge and Brathay 
Bridge, beyond which it joins the Rothay, about half 
a mile from its entrance into Windermere. From the 

c 



26 WINDERMERE. 

County Stones on Wrynose, it forms the boundary 
between Lancashire and Westmorland. 

The Troutbeck also contributes to the supply of 
Windermere, and enters it on the eastern shore near 
Calgarth Park. 

The lake discharges its superfluous waters at Newby 
Bridge, at the southern extremity. There they assume 
the name of the river Leven ; and, after a course of a 
few miles, fall into Morecambe Bay. 

Windermere is plentifully stocked with trout, perch, 
pike, eels, and char ; and its banks are much fre- 
quented by various kinds of wild-fowl, such as swans, 
geese, ducks, teal, widgeons, gravigers, didappers, &c. 
The char are much esteemed ; they are caught during 
the winter months, potted, and sent to London and 
other places. The char is a fish about twice the size 
of a herring. Its back is of an olive-green; its belly 
of a bright vermilion, softened in some parts into 
white, and changing into a deep red at the insertion 
of the fins. 

The shores of Windermere are beautifully diversified 
by sloping hills, hanging woods, cultivated grounds, 
and numerous charming villas, which add much inte- 
rest to the natural beauties of the scene. Diffusive- 
ness, stately beauty, and — towards the northern end — 
magnificence, have been justly pronounced the cha- 
racteristics of this lake. It experiences scarcely any 
alteration in appearance from the prevalence either of 
wet or dry weather, and always maintains nearly the 
same level. It is, however, often agitated violently 
and suddenly by the wind ; and is, on this account, 
dangerous for sailing vessels. Almost every resident, 



BELLE ISLE. 27 

however, in the vicinity has a boat, and some persons 
keep two or more. During summer, when they are 
seen tacking from side to side, the lake has a gay and 
animated appearance, particularly when enlightened 
by the sun, and set off by the deep-toned backgrounds 
of shadowed mountains. 

The clearness of the water is remarkable. As 
Mr. Gilpin justly expresses it, " the eye can see dis- 
tinctly, in smooth water, through a medium of at least 
a dozen yards ; and view the inhabitants of its deep 
recesses, as they play in shoals, and — 



sporting, with quick glance, 



Show to the sun their waved coats, dropped with gold. 



J5 



■ Windermere is adorned with fourteen islands, called 
holmes ; but their effect is much diminished by being 
grouped in a narrow part of the lake. The prin- 
cipal is 

BELLE ISLE, or CURWEX'S ISLAND. 

This beautiful island derives its second title from the 
late J. C. Curwen, Esq., to whom it is indebted for 
many of its decorations. It is also sometimes called 
Windermere Island, and sometimes the Great 
Island, being the largest on the lake. It contains 
about thirty- six acres, and is surrounded by a gravel 
w r alk nearly 2 miles in circumference, on which stran- 
gers are allowed to walk. Its form is oblong ; its 
shores irregular, retiring into bays, and broken into 
creeks. The surface, too, is uneven ; and a small 
ridge runs through the middle, falling down in all 
shapes into the water. The mansion is a handsome 

c2 



28 BELLE ISLE. 

building, begun by Mr. English, a former proprietor 
of the island, and completed by Mr. Curwen. It com- 
mands a view of the whole lake, and is surrounded bv 
noble trees and shrubberies. At the landing-place is 
a neat boat-house. Nothing can exceed the variety 
of scenery presented to the eye in a walk round this 
delightful island, and no tourist, who is in search of 
the picturesque should omit to visit it. Mr. Housman 
thus describes the views obtained from the north and 
south sides of the island. " The northern shores 
afford a mixed prospect of the beautiful and sublime ; 
a number of scattered islands interrupt the line of 
uniformity, which would otherwise bound a reach of 
the lake four miles and a half in length, and in some 
parts above one in breadth. These islands, in shape 
and clothing, display a pleasing variety in the fore- 
ground of the picture. The side screens are different ; 
that on the left consists of a rocky ridge, descending 
to the water, partly covered with verdure, on which 
flocks of mountain sheep are seen feeding, and partly 
clothed with thick woods, or scattered with straggling 
trees and evergreen shrubs, over which the heights of 
Furness Fells are peeping into the lake. On the right 
neat villages and farms, half buried in wood, form a 
delightful mixture of woodland and cultivated fields, 
stretching, in a gradual ascent, from the water's edge 
to the tops of some of the hills. In front, we have a 
large collection of high mountains, with pointed sum- 
mits, rearing up in different attitudes, and one over- 
looking the top of another, as if anxious to gaze on 
the beauties of the lake. Turning to the south, we 
observe the lake extending many miles in that direc- 



rawlinson's nab. 29 

tion, with variety of shore, and patched with islands. 
In every point of view, mountains, at different dis- 
tances, raise their bulky crests, and form a noble 
amphitheatre round the lake. 

" From the southern side, also, a good prospect 
opens before us, particularly to the foot of the lake. 
The two ferry points creeping towards each other, 
with the island of Crow-holme on the right, form a 
picturesque strait, through which Berkshire Island, 
towards the centre of the lake, is seen raising its head 
above the water. Beyond this, Rawlinson's Nab on 
the west, and Storr's Point on the east, are two bold 
promontories, which push abruptly into the lake. The 
line of shore on each side is much indented, and 
sweetly fringed with trees ; while the waving hills, 
which guard the lake, are clothed either with a com- 
bination of verdant fields and sweeping woods, or a 
mixture of grey rock twisting through a grassy turf, 
and scattered evergreen trees and shrubs." 

The other principal islands of Windermere are 
Rough-holme, of a circular form, covered with trees ; 
Lady-holme, on which formerly stood an oratory ; 
Hen-holme, a rock clothed with shrubs ; Grass-holme, 
shaded with a grove of oaks ; Crow-holme, and Berk- 
shire Island, or Ramps-holme. 

On leaving Belle Isle, the tourist should go down 
the lake to Rawlinson's Nab, by which mode he will 
obtain the best views of the scenery. Rawlinson's 
Nab is a lofty peninsular rock, of circular form, pro- 
jecting into the lake from the western shore. From 
this spot the lake is seen spreading in different direc- 
tions, in two fine sheets of water. Towards the south, 



30 BOWNESS. 

the view is bounded by bold and well-wooded hills, 
interspersed with rocks and patches of enclosed ground. 
The view northwards is broken by small islands and 
promontories, amongst which Storr's Point appears 
conspicuous ; and beyond it Bannerigg and Orrest 
Head are seen to great advantage. 

From the Cat-rag, a little to the south of Rawlin- 
son's Nab, a good view of the south end of the lake 
is obtained. 

Storr's Hall stands upon a promontory on the 
east side of the lake, about 2 miles south from Bow- 
ness. It was erected by Sir John Legard, but has 
been rebuilt by John Bolton, Esq., from designs by 
Mr. Gandy. It contains fine pictures. 

The best situation on the water for viewing the 
scenery round the head of Windermere is about half 
a mile from the entrance of the Brathay into the lake. 
Here the high lands at Rydal, Ambleside, Troutbeck, 
and Applethwaite, with Hill Bell and the neighbouring 
summits, are seen to the greatest advantage. 

The slate trade of Langdale is aided by the lake of 
Windermere. The slate is brought in carts from the 
quarries to the landing at the mouth of the Brathay, 
and thence conveyed in boats to Newby Bridge, where 
it is again put into carts, and sent by the side of the 
Leven to the sea, below the Low Wood powder-mills. 

BOWNESS 

Is a village delightfully situated at the bottom of a 
small bay on the eastern shore of Windermere. It is 
w r ell described by Mr. Gilpin as " the capital port-town 
of the lakes, if we may adopt a dignified style which 



BOWNESS. 31 

the grandeur of the scene suggests. It is the great 
mart for fish and charcoal, both which commodities 
are largely imported here, and carried by land into 
the country. Its harbour is crowded with vessels of 
various kinds, some of which are used merely as plea- 
sure-boats in navigating the lake." 

Bowness has two good inns, the White Lion and 
the Crown. A new inn, " The Crown," has recently 
been erected behind the old one, which commands a 
fine view, and is fitted up in superior style. Visiters 
may also readily obtain lodgings in private houses. 

Boats for Windermere may be hired at the inns. 
The charge for a boat to visit the Island and the Sta- 
tion House, and return to Bowness, is 2s. ; to go to the 
head or to the foot of the lake and return, 5s.; or, if 
the boat is hired by time, 1^. per hour. The boatman 
will also expect something for himself, as he depends 
entirely on such donations, the boats belonging to the 
proprietors of the inns. 

The church is a neat but small edifice, containing 
several sepulchral memorials of families resident in 
the vicinity. There are also remains of a painted 
window, w T hich formerly belonged to Furness Abbey, 
and is supposed to have been executed in the reign of 
Edward III. The most perfect part represents the 
Crucifixion. Near the altar is a marble monument by 
Flaxman, erected in memory of Dr. Richard Watson, 
Bishop of Llandaff, who formerly resided at Calgarth 
Park, in the vicinity. He was buried in the church- 
yard, where there is a tomb with a simple Latin in- 
scription. The church also contains a singular epitaph 
on one Philipson, written by himself. 



32 VIEW OF WINDERMERE. 

The rectory-house is pleasantly situated, fronting 
the lake, along the shore of which the glebe-land 
extends for about half a mile. 

Near Bowness are eminences of various degrees of 
elevation, affording excellent views of Windermere. 
On a hill above the village is the station pointed out 
by Mr. Young for taking a general view of the whole 
lake. This station should be visited in the moriung. 
It has been thus well described by Mr. Young; 
though, it must be acknowledged, in rather glowing 
terms : — 

" Having viewed the most pleasing objects from 
these points, let me next conduct you to a spot where, 
at one glance, you command them all in fresh situa- 
tions, and all assuming a new appearance. For this 
purpose, you return to the village, and taking the by- 
road to the turnpike, mount the hill without turning 
your head (if I were your guide, I would conduct you 
behind a small hill, that you might come at once upon 
the view), till you almost gain the top, when you will 
be struck with astonishment at the prospect spread at 
your feet; which, if not the most superlative view 
which Nature can exhibit, she is more fertile in beau- 
ties than the reach of my imagination will allow me to 
conceive. It would be mere vanity to attempt to 
describe a scene which beggars all description : but 
that you may have some faint idea of the outlines of 
this wonderful picture, I will just give the particulars 
of which it consists : — 

" The point on which you stand is the side of a 
large ridge of hills that form the eastern boundary of 
the lake, and the situation high enough to look down 



VIEW OF WINDERMERE. 33 

upon all the objects ; a circumstance of great import- 
ance, which painting cannot imitate. In landscapes, 
you are either on a level with the objects, or look up 
to them : the painter cannot give the declivity at 
your feet, which lessens the object as much in the 
perpendicular line as in the horizontal one. You 
look down upon a noble winding valley, of about 12 
miles long/ every where enclosed with grounds, which 
rise in a very bold and various manner ; in some places 
bulging into mountains, abrupt, wild, and cultivated ; 
in others, breaking into rocks, craggy, pointed, and 
irregular; here rising into hills covered with the noblest 
woods, presenting a gloomy brownness of shade, almost 
from the clouds to the reflection of the trees in the 
limpid water of the lake they so beautifully skirt ; 
there waving in glorious slopes of cultivated enclo- 
sures, adorned in the sweetest manner with every ob- 
ject that can give variety to art, or elegance to Nature ; 
trees, woods, villages, houses, farms, scattered with 
picturesque confusion, and waving to the eye in the 
most romantic landscapes that Nature can exhibit. 

" This valley, so beautifully enclosed, is floated by 
the lake, which spreads forth to the right and left in 
one vast but irregular expanse of transparent water ; 
a more noble object can hardly be imagined. Its im- 
mediate shore is traced in every variety of line that 
fancy can imagine ; sometimes contracting the lake 
into the appearance of a noble winding river, at 
others retiring from it, and opening into large bays, 
as if for navies to anchor in; promontories, spread 
with woods, or scattered with trees and enclosures, 
projecting into the water in the most picturesque style 

c5 



34 RAYRIGG. 

imaginable ; rocky points breaking the shore, and 
rearing their bold heads above the water ; in a word, 
a variety that amazes the beholder. But what finishes 
the scene, with an elegance too delicious to be ima- 
gined, is, this beautiful sheet of water being dotted 
with no less than ten islands, distinctly comprehended 
by the eye ; all of the most bewitching beauty. The 
large one presents a waving various line, which rises 
from the water in the most picturesque inequalities of 
surface ; high land in one place, low in another — 
clumps of trees in this spot, scattered ones in that, 
adorned by a farm-house on the water's edge, and 
backed with a little wood, vying in elegance with Bor- 
romean palaces ; some of the smaller islets rising from 
the lake like little hills of wood ; some only scattered 
with trees, and others of grass of the finest verdure ; 
a more beautiful variety is nowhere to be seen." 

About a mile north of Bowness is the little village 
of Rayrigg, at which is a small verdant hill, com- 
manding a fine prospect of the northern portion of 
Windermere. To the left are seen Bowness and Belle 
Isle ; and in front, over the hills which slope towards 
the lake, appears the Old Man. Further to the right 
is the valley of Langdale, extending many miles back 
to the mountains called Langdale Pikes. At the head 
of the lake are the woods and mansion of Brathay, and 
above them rises Loughrigg Fell. Immediately to the 
right of the spectator are seen Troutbeck Valley, and 
Calgarth Park at its mouth. 

On the margin of the lake, between the village and 
Bowness, is Rayrigg Hall, standing on a gentle 
eminence. 



35 



V. From BOWNESS to AMBLESIDE. 

Miles. 
Bowness to Troutbeck Bridge . . ♦ 2J 
Troutbeck Bridge to Low Wood Inn . . 2 
Low Wood Inn to Ambleside . . . . 1 J 



Quitting Bowness, the tourist proceeds towards Trout- 
beck Bridge by a picturesque road, the higher parts 
of which command fine views of the mountains round 
the head of Windermere. Amongst those which come 
successively in view are, the Old Man, Wrynose, 
Scawfell Pikes in the distance, Bow Fell, Great Gavel 
in the distance, Langdale Pikes, Loughrigg Fell, and 
Fairfield. The grounds at Brathay and Clappersgate 
enrich the borders of the lake with a tasteful variety 
of buildings and trees. 

At the mouth of the valley of Troutbeck, which 
abounds wdth the picturesque, is Calgarth Park, 
which w r as the seat of Dr. Richard Watson, the 
learned Bishop of Llandaff. This elegant mansion 
was built by the Bishop in 1789 ; and here he expired 
in 1816, in his 79th year. 

Low Wood Inn is a handsome hotel, occupying an 
enchanting situation upon the margin of a small bay 
of Windermere. It commands a most beautiful pro- 
spect, embracing the whole of the upper part of the 
lake, and extending southward as far as Belle Isle. 
Boats may be obtained here for excursions on the 



36 SKELGILL. 

water ; and a cannon is kept for the purpose of grati- 
fying visiters with those extraordinary reverberations 
which follow its discharge in these romantic districts. 
The high ground above Low Wood Inn commands 
views of peculiar beauty. These may be enjoyed by 
making the following excursions. The first must be 
made on foot. The second and third may be made 
either in a carriage or a cart. 

1. To Skelgill. 

Miles. 
Low Wood to Low Fold 1J 

Low Fold to Skelgill 1J 

Skelgill to Low Skelgill J 

Low Skelgill to Troutbeck Road . • J 

Troutbeck Road to Low Wood , . . 1 

A little to the north of Low Skelgill a fine view is 
presented of the islands on Windermere, with Bow- 
ness and the neighbouring seats on the left, and on 
the right, the Ferry and Station Houses. The foot of 
Furness Fell, on the same side, beautifully embays the 
lake. The house in Curwen's Island forms a good 
object, rising above the neighbouring trees. This 
island and the Ferry House point appear as one pro- 
montory, the intervening water not being visible : but 
the Bowness Ferry point is distinctly seen, together 
with the seat of Storrs and the summer-house at the 
end of a strip of land jutting into the lake. Gum- 
mer's How closes the scene. 



KIRKSTONE. 37 



2. To Troutbeck. 

Miles. 
Low Wood to Troutbeck Guide-post . . 2 
Troutbeck Guide-post to Troutbeck Bridge 2 
Troutbeck Bridge to Low Wood • 2 



The view from the top of the hill, about half-way 
between Low Wood and the Guide-post, is one of the 
most enchanting amongst the lakes. It embraces all 
the islands of Windermere, which are seen here to the 
best advantage, the most desirable spaces being left 
between each island and the shores of the lake, which 
spread out into beautiful bays. The two ferry points 
are not so distinctly seen from any other place. 

The village of Troutbeck commences rather more 
than half a mile from this point of view, at an 
ancient farm-house. Here a guide-post directs to 
Kendal over Troutbeck Bridge. The view between 
the Bridge and Low Wood is frequently interrupted 
by woods. 

3. To Kirkstone. 

Miles. 

Low Wood to Ambleside 1J- 

Ambleside to Kirkstone Guide-post • . 4 
Kirkstone Guide-post to Troutbeck . . 4| 
Troutbeck to Low Wood 2 



11 



3 



These excursions may, of course, be made with 
equal facility from Ambleside. 

Beyond Low Wood the road passes by Water Head, 



38 AMBLESIDE. 

which is so called from its situation at the head of 
Windermere. 

AMBLESIDE 

Is a small market -town, with about 1^095 inhabitants, 
picturesquely situated on the steep declivity of a hill 
in the valley of the Rothay, which extends from the 
head of Windermere, towards the north. It is about 
one mile from the lake, and the valley is three miles in 
length. The town is irregularly built, and very much 
resembles a large village. It is defended on the north 
side by a semicircular range of fells, of which Rydal 
Head is the most remarkable. From these fells there 
are delightful views of Windermere. The rivulet 
called Stock Gill passes through the town, and here 
forms the line of separation between the parishes of 
Bowness and Grasmere. 

Ambleside is a place of great antiquity. Roman 
coins and ancient arms have frequently been found 
in its vicinity ; and in a field near the head of Win- 
dermere are slight traces of the Roman station which 
is said to have been the Dictis, where a part of the 
cohort Nerviorum Dictentium was stationed. This 
fortress has been described by Camden. It was si- 
tuated at the junction of the roads from Penrith, Kes- 
wick, Ravenglass, Furness, and Kendal, all of which 
it commanded, and was accessible onlv on one side. 

The Chapel of Ambleside is a neat Gothic structure, 
erected in 1812, on the site of the original building : 
it forms a pretty summit to the village when viewed 
from many parts of the valley. There is also a good 
grammar-school, founded by John Keswick in 1723, 



STOCKGILL FORCE. 39 

and an exhibition of Views of the Lakes, which was 
established by the late Mr. Green, and is continued 
by his family. Here the tourist may obtain a collec- 
tion of views at a moderate expense. 

During the summer, this town is very much fre- 
quented ; its centrical situation and romantic scenery 
inducing many tourists to make it their head-quarters. 
Lodgings may be obtained here. The Salutation is 
the principal inn. The Commercial is a tolerable inn, 
and there is another, called the White Lion. 

Here boats may be hired for viewing the beauties 
of Windermere. The landing-place is about three- 
quarters of a mile distant. 

A stage-coach from Kendal to Whitehaven passes 
through Ambleside every morning, and another in its 
way from Whitehaven to Kendal passes every evening, 
except on Sunday. 

About three-quarters of a mile from Ambleside, at a 
place called the Groves, is 

STOCKGILL FORCE. 

This is one of the most beautiful cascades amongst the 
lakes. Like other waterfalls, it is seen to most ad- 
vantage after wet weather ; but, even if the season be 
dry, it merits a visit for its singular beauty. The tor- 
rent w T hich forms the fall rises in the mountains behind 
Ambleside, and flows, in a narrow channel, through 
an opening in the rock, w T hich is partially concealed 
by overhanging foliage. At the summit of the fall, 
which is altogether about 150 feet, the torrent is 
divided into two streams by a huge crag, covered with 
moss, trees, and shrubs. After falling about half the 



40 STOCKGILL FORCE. 

depth, they dash against a rock, from which they re- 
bound in foam and spray, and unite at the bottom in 
a dark gulf. Thence the water rushes down a steep 
and craggy channel, through a narrow gill or valley, 
and joins the Rothay below Ambleside. 

The space between the Force and the Woollen Mill 
will delight the artist, as at every step in this distance 
the river exhibits either excellent compositions or rich 
detached pieces for the embellishment of landscape. 
The transparent stream runs over a bed of the finest- 
formed rocks and stones, which by their inequalities 
produce, in every variety, the prettiest waterfalls ; 
sometimes, confined to a narrow channel, the water, 
impatient of resistance, dashes impetuously down the 
steep crag to a momentary rest ; but oftener spanning 
the little channel, iti gentle motion, slips over the 
smooth rocks, softening into beauty their original tints. 
The margin of this gill is sometimes low, sometimes 
swelling, but oftener in steep and grassy banks, or 
bold projecting rocks ; the native woods, in wild intri- 
cacy, impend from the rocks, which are additionally 
clothed with fern, moss, and other vegetation. Wans- 
fell Pike is occasionally seen through the vista on 
looking up the river, and the Langdale Pikes on look- 
ins: down it. Near the Woollen Mill is an old sum- 
mer-house once belonging to Ambleside Hall, the an- 
cient family-seat of the Braithwaites, which stood in 
Ambleside at the junction of the Keswick and Penrith 
roads. It stands upon a bridge crossing the river, and 
forms a very picturesque object. A corn-mill adjoins 
the bridge, and between it and the summer-house is a 
bark-mill. This part of the river is called Rattle Gill, 



LANGDALE. 41 

probably on account of the turbulence of its waters in 
wet weather. 

Scandale Beck, which crosses the Keswick road 
at Scandale Bridge, about half a mile from Ambleside., 
is a rivulet which rises between Scandale Fell and 
High Pike, and forms numerous pretty waterfalls in 
its course to the Rothav. Few of the falls are high, 
but the best are between Scandale Bridge and Nook 
End Bridge. This little river, though pretty, is far 
inferior to Stock Gill in the character of its scenery. 

LANGDALE. 

The vales of Great and Little Langdale may be visited 
more advantageously from Ambleside than from any 
other place. They both abound with picturesque 
scenery, which many persons consider equal, if not 
superior, to any, in the north of England. Both val- 
leys are best viewed by looking at their heads respect- 
ively, and those who have leisure and taste for such 
rambles may proceed so as to see them in both direc- 
tions. When, however, only one day can be spared 
for a sight of the Langdales, the approach should be 
made by Little Langdale, and the return by Great 
Langdale. The excursion is usually arranged in the 



following manner :■ 



Miles. 



Ambleside to Skelwith Bridge 3 

Skelwith Bridge to Colwith Force .... 2 

Coiwiih Force to Blea Tarn 3 

Blea Tarn to Dungeon Gill . . . . • 3 _..- 

Dungeon Gill to Langdale Chapel Stile . . 2 

Return by High Close and Rvdal to Ambleside 5 

la 









42 CLAPPERGATE. 

The best mode of performing it is on horseback, many 
parts of it not admitting the use of a carriage. It is, 
however, by no means unusual to perform the whole 
excursion in a cart, and in this way it will occupy 8 or 
9 hours. 

Most of the beauties of this tour are faced by begin- 
ning with Little Langdale, and the principal part of 
the beauties not faced are those in Great Langdale, 
which are viewed from the road between Mill Beck 
and the slate-quarry at Thrang Crag, and this is only 
about two miles out of the whole eighteen. Another 
reason for going first to Little Langdale, is, that the 
scenery of Great Langdale is best seen in the after- 
noon and evening. 

On leaving Ambleside, the tourist crosses the 
Rothay over a stone bridge of one arch, and passes 
by Croft Lodge, situated at the southern extremity 
of Loughrigg Fell, and surrounded by trees. In front 
is seen the junction of the rivers Rothay and Brathay. 
Thence he proceeds through the hamlet of Clapper- 
gate, whence slate, charcoal, and other articles are 
sent down the lake of Windermere. Here there are 
several charming villas. A little beyond Clappergate 
appears the river Brathay dashing over a stony bed, 
having, on each side, swelling grounds interspersed 
with trees: on the left are seen the Tilberthwaite 
mountains, and on the right, those of Langdale. 
Brathay Bridge, which consists of two arches over the 
river of that name, forms a very picturesque object. 
It is about a. mile from Ambleside. 

Hence he may proceed, with the river on the left, 
to Skelwith Bridge ; or, crossing Brathay Bridge, take 



COLWITH FORCE. 43 

the river on the right by Skelwith Fold ; the latter 
road commands a more extensive view of Great Lang- 
dale. 

Pursuing the former, the tourist leaves Brathay 
Bridge to the left, and, approaching Skelwith Force, 
enjoys a very fine view towards the west. He then 
stops just in sight of the bridge, and walks up to Skel- 
with Force, about a quarter of a mile distant. Here 
the river tumbles down between two crags, and imme- 
diately afterwards spreads into a wide stream scattered 
with rocky fragments. From a spot a few yards 
beyond the fall, a fine view T is obtained of Elter Water 
and the Langdale Pikes. 

Elter Water is a small lake of irregular form, 
abounding with fish, and surrounded by patches of 
wood. The house at its head is called Elter Water 
Hall. 

The tourist then returns to Skelwith Bridge, beyond 
which a steep ascent leads through a close lane to a 
terrace of considerable elevation, from which there is 
a grand view of Elter Water and of Great and Little 
Langdale, separated by Lingmire mountain. A steep 
winding path then descends to Colwith Bridge, and 
so precipitously, that it will be advisable to walk. 
The bridge" is a single arch over the rivulet of that 
name, which rises in the neighbouring fells. Just 
above it is the cataract called Colwith Force, beyond 
w r hich is seen Wedderlamb Mountain. Here the 
torrent forms a succession of falls, altogether about 
140 feet in depth. The view is particularly fine from 
the bed of the river, and from the side of the rocky 
walls which border it. 



44 BLEA TARN. 

About 1| mile beyond Colwith Bridge is Little 
Langdale Tarn, backed by some beautifully-formed 
mountains ; the principal of which are the Great and 
Little Carrs. The space between the eye and the 
lake is in Westmorland, and the remainder in Lan- 
cashire. 

We then arrive at Blea Tarn, a placid little lake, 
lying between the heads of Great and Little Langdale, 
and surrounded by a grand assemblage of mountains, 
The highest pike, called Harrison's Stickle, is about 
3 miles from the eye, and Stickle Pike, with its round 
head, receding towards the pass in Borrowdale, more 
than 4. The bases of the mountains cannot here 
be seen, being cut off by a projecting portion of Blake- 
rig£ on the left, and Lingmire on the right. Near the 
lake is a solitary farm-house. This is the scene de- 
scribed by Mr. Wordsworth, in his poem of the " Ex- 
cursion :" 

" Beneath our feet,' a little lowly vale, 
A lowly vale, and yet uplifted high 
Among the mountains ; even as if the spot 
Had been, from eldest time, by wish of theirs 
So placed^ — to be shut out from all the world ! 
Urn-like it was in shape, deep as an urn ; 
With rocks encompass'd, save that to the south 
Was one small opening, where a heath-clad ridge 
Supplied a boundary less abrupt and close ; 
A quiet tree-less nook, with two green fields, 
A liquid pool that glitter'd in the sun, 
And one bare dwelling — one abode, no more ! 
It seem'd the home of poverty and toil, 
Though not of want. The little fields, made green 
By husbandly of many thrifty years, 
Paid cheerful tribute to the moorland House. 
There crows the cock, single in his domain: 



STICKLE TARN. 45 

The small birds find in spring no thicket there 
To shroud them; only from the neighbouring vales 
The cuckoo, strangling up to the hill-tops, 
Shouteth faint tidings of some gladder place." 

Returning to the road and passing by the farm- 
house, to a little beyond the foot of the lake, a fine 
view is obtained. In the back-ground are seen the 
mountains which have fronted the view coming from 
Ambleside, but they here assume a different form. 
The principal is Wedderlamb, and Blakerigg is now 
seen on the right. On a part of Blakerigg, at the foot 
of the gill issuing from the tarn, is a steep rock called 
Blakeri££ Scar, near which is a fine echo. 

From Blea Tarn, the tourist has Bow Fell in pro- 
spect, till he arrives at a spot where he looks down a 
hill to the head of Great Langdale, and obtains a 
fine view of a circular valley of rich enclosures, scat- 
tered with trees, and apparently shut in by high moun- 
tains, amongst which Bow Fell and the Langdale 
Pikes appear the most conspicuous. 

Thence he descends steeply to Wall End, the 
highest house on the west side of the valley, and pro- 
ceeds into the valley of Mill Beck, the name given 
to a few farm-houses about 300 yards from the 
road. If the tourist wishes to ascend to the top 
of Harrison's Stickle, or to Stickle Tarn, he 
should commence at Mill Beck, taking a guide with 
him. The tarn is a small circular piece of water, 
noted for the excellence of its trout. Three-fourths of 
its margin are bordered by soft turf; from the other 
fourth, rises a fine range of rocks called Pavey Ark. 
The best point to view them is from the outlet of the 



46 ELTER WATER. 

tarn,, a small stream which rolls over many a rock in 
its descent to Mill Beck. There is a peat road from 
Mill Beck to the tarn, which the tourist will find the 
best mode of ascent, unless he wish to visit Dungeon 
Gill in his way. 

Dungeon Gill, which is also visited from Mill 
Beck, on account of its romantic waterfall, is a stream 
issuing between the two pikes, to the north of that just 
mentioned, as proceeding from the tarn, and falling 
among rocks of a peculiarly flinty appearance. Here 
Mr. Wordsworth has laid the scene of his pleasing 
pastoral poem, entitled " The Idle Shepherd Boys." 

* It was a spot which you may see 
If ever you to Langdale go ; 
Into a chasm a mighty block 
Hath fallen, and made a bridge of rock: 

The gulf is deep below ; 
And in a basin black and small 
Receives a lofty waterfall." 

Continuing down great Langdale, the tourist will 
recollect that, between Mill Beck and the slate-quarry 
at Thrang Crag, it will be well to take a retrospective 
glance at the mountains. Lingmire may be observed 
intersecting the base of the pikes, and Bow Fell is seen 
in the distance through an opening. A little beyond 
the slate-quarry is Langdale Chapel, and near it a 
public-house. Here, taking the road to the left, he 
will obtain a second view of Elter Water ; and, at a 
little distance in the valley to the right, perceive a 
gunpowder manufactory. He may then cross the hill 
by High Close Farm, from which there is a very fine 
view, embracing three lakes, Elter Water, Loughrigg 



GRASMERE. 47 

Tarn, and Windermere ; and, leaving Grasmere and 
Rydal Lakes to the left, enter the high road a short 
distance from Ambleside. 



This excursion may be abridged by going only to 
Skelwith Force, crossing Great Langdale, and passing 
into Grasmere ; or it may be lengthened by ascending 
Bow Fell, from Wall End Farm, in Great Langdale, 
or passing the Stake into Borrovvdale. 

Another variation may be made by pursuing the 
first course pointed out, and turning to the left beyond 
High Close Farm, adding to the excursion a tour round 
Grasmere and Rydal Lakes. This will lengthen the 
tour about 2 miles, but add very much to its interest, 
as the lake and vale of Grasmere present a complete 
contrast to the views already obtained in this day's 
excursion. 

Various other excursions may be made from Am- 
bleside, if the tourist have time and inclination. 

1. To Grasmere, under Loughrigg Fell. 

Leaving Ambleside, pass Rothay Bridge — Miller 
Bridge Cottage — enter Fox How Wood — Fox Gill, at 
the foot of a wooded rock, beyond which is seen 
Loughrigg Fell, with Holm Scar hanging on its side 
— Pelter Bridge — Coat How Farm House — Dear- 
bought Hill, commanding a fine view of Grasmere — 
Tail End, from which also there is a beautiful view of 
Grasmere — the Wyke — Gell's Cottage, a very tasteful 
villa of recent erection, embosomed in trees — Grasmere 



48 



IVY CRAG. 



Church — and thence, by Rydal Water, to Ambleside, 
— altogether about 10 miles. 

2. To Loughrigg Tarn, over Loughrigg 

Fell. 

From Rothay Bridge, proceed, nearly as far as the 
woods at Fox How, to a gate from which the path 
ascends, passing a barn, and enters a wood. At the 
end of the wood the path crosses a gate and leads 
over a common to Loughrigg Tarn, a small sheet of 
water encompassed by meadow-ground and woods, 
backed by Lingmire, the Langdale Pikes, and Bow 
Fell. The road skirts the border of this little lake, 
and passes by two houses called the How. It then 
joins the road from Langdale, and proceeds by Pelter 
Bridge, keeping the lakes of Grasmere and Rydal on 
the left, to Ambleside, — a walking excursion of 7 or 8 
miles. 



3. To Loughrigg Tarn and Grasmere. 

From Ambleside proceed through Clappergate — at 
the Guide-post, 2 miles from Ambleside, turn to the 
right bv the Ellers and Tarn Foot — Lougrhriofor Fold 
— Loughrigg Tarn — the Oaks — Grasmere Church- 
Ambleside, — an excursion of 10 miles, which may be 
made in a carriage. 

4. To Ivy Crag. 

Ivy Crag is an elevated rock, nearly half a mil< 
south-east of Loughrigg Tarn, and about 3 miles from 
Ambleside. It commands a very fine view. Th< 



EXCURSIONS FROM AMBLESIDE. 49 

tourist may go to it through Clappergate, and return 
by Coat How and Pelter Bridge, — altogether a walk 
of about six miles. 

5. To Round Knott. 

Round Knott, or Pincushion Hill, as it is some- 
times called, is a small knoll at the top of the hill 
above Fox Gill. The summit commands a good pano- 
ramic view. It is about two miles from Ambleside. 

6. To Wansfell Pike. 

Proceed by Low Fold — under Strawberry Bank — 
Skelgill — Wansfell Pike, from which there is a fine 
view — return by Waterfall Lane to Ambleside — not 
quite five miles. This walk presents a great variety 
of interesting scenery. 

7. To Fairfield. 

Proceed to Rydal — turn to the right between Rydal 
Hall and Rydal Mount — to Nab Scar, whence there 
is an extensive prospect, embracing no less than eight 
lakes, namely, Windermere, Blelham Tarn, Esthwaite 
Water, Rydal Water, Coniston Water, Elter Water, 
Grasmere Lake, and Easedale Tarn — Fairfield — over 
High and Low Pikes, to Nook End Bridge — Amble- 
side,— a walk of ten miles. 

8. To Yewdale and Tilberthwaite. 

This excursion must be made on foot or in a cart. 
Proceed along the Little Langdale road as far as Skel- 
with Bridge, and then turn to the left at the top of the 
hill between Skelwith and Colwith Bridges — Pass some 

D 



50 EXCURSIONS FROM AMBLESIDE. 

houses called Oxen Fell,, near which a good view is 
obtained of the mountains of Little Langdale and Bow 
Fell — Hodge Close, with a large slate-quarry — Fine 
view of the Langdale mountains near Holm Ground — 
Thence descend to Shepherd's Bridge in Yewdale, 
which is about seven miles from Ambleside, and is so 
called from a large yew-tree — Return by the slate- 
quarry at Penny Rigg — Tilberthwaite — Little Lang- 
dale — Colwith Bridge — Shelwith Bridge, — to Amble- 
side ; — altogether about fifteen miles. 






51 



VI. From AMBLESIDE to KESWICK, by 

RYDAL WATER, GRASMERE, and 

THIRLMERE. 

Mile3. 



Ambleside to Rydal .... 
Rydal to Grasmere .... 
Grasmere to Dunmel Raise . 
Duumel Raise to Wythburn . 
Wythbum to Smallthwaite Bridge 
Smallthwaite Bridge to Castle Rigg 
Castle Rigg to Keswick 



2£ 

H 

4 

3 

1 

16 

The road from Ambleside to Keswick presents a 
charming variety of hill,, dale, and water ; and if much 
rain has fallen, the tourist will be gratified with the 
sight of innumerable cascades falling down the moun- 
tains on each side of his route. 

Should he wish only to take a cursory glance of the 
scenery, he cannot do better than mount the front of 
the stage-coach which every morning passes through 
Ambleside to Keswick. He will then have an oppor- 
tunity of viewing the best combinations, which are 
almost always those in prospect. On returning, how- 
ever, from Keswick to Ambleside, he should ascend 
the hinder part of the coach and sit with his back to 
the vehicle, in order to enjoy this charming ride. 

Rydal is a small but very neat village, with a 
church, erected in 1826. On the right, about 200 
yards east of the road, is Rydal Hall, the seat of 
the Le Fleming family, a noble mansion, situated on a 
gentle eminence near the road, at the junction of two 
valleys. It is sheltered by tall oaks and o fl,fi r trees, 

d2 



52 RYDAL MOUNT. 

which occupy the surrounding heights. Behind it 
rises the rocky mountain of Rydal Head, and, in front, 
the house commands a fine view of Windermere and 
the intervening vale. In the grounds are two beautiful 
cascades. One is in a small glen, half a mile from the 
house, and is approached by a convenient path. This 
is a considerable stream, which makes a fall of about 
twenty-five feet in one unbroken sheet, besides several 
of less height. The other is situated close to the side 
of the house. It is on a smaller scale, and is seen 
through a kind of summer-house, bursting at once 
upon the eye when the door is opened. 

From the summit of Rydal Head, there is a fine 
view of the vales of Grasmere and Rydal, the small 
lake of Elter Water, and the majestic Windermere. 
Esthwaite and Coniston lakes are seen further to the 
right, and in the distance appears the Irish Sea. 

A short distance higher up the hill than the mansion 
just mentioned, is Rydal Mount, the residence of 
Mr. Wordsworth, the celebrated author of " The Ex- 
cursion," and other poems. It is delightfully situated, 
commanding prospects of Windermere and Rydal 
lakes. The grounds are laid out with great taste. 
Strangers may obtain permission to go on the mount 
in front of the house, from which there is a charming 
view. 

On the right of the road, about half a mile beyond 
the village of Rydal, is the White Moss Slate- 
quarry. Here the old and new roads to the vale of 
Grasmere separate. The former crossed a steep hill. 
The latter, which the tourist will pursue, as it is far 
more beautiful, proceeds along the margin of Rydal 



RYDAL WATER. 53 

and Grasmere lakes, and is a perfect level. To the 
left, over Rydal Water, is seen Loughrigg Fell, and 
to the right, rises still more abruptly, Nab Scar. 

RYDAL WATER 

Is a small lake, being only about a mile in length, and 
little more than a quarter of a mile in breadth. Its 
shores are picturesque, and its surface is spotted with 
two well-wooded islets, which form pleasing features in 
the views obtained from the sides and summits of the 
surrounding heights. It communicates by a narrow 
channel, about half a mile long, with Grasmere Water. 
Over this stream is a wooden bridge, erected for the 
use of the White Moss slaters, who reside in Langdale 
and Loughrigg. 

GRASMERE WATER. 

This lake is also about a mile in length, but is more 
extensive than that of Rydal, spreading out in some 
parts to half a mile in breadth. It is surrounded by 
mountains of various singular forms, and in whatever 
direction it is seen presents splendid views. Near the 
centre is an island of about four acres, covered with 
verdant pasture, and adorned with a small clump of 
trees. At the head of the lake is seen the village of 
Grasmere, with its neat white church, — the burial- 
place of the Le Fleming family. Near the church are 
the parsonage-house and the school. A swelling 
bank above these presents Allan Bank, and on the 
left, Pavement End, both beautifully embowered. 
Helm Crag rises to a fine apex. The Carrs and 
Wythburn Head, on the left of Helm Crag and Steel 



54 GRASMERE WATER. 

Fell, and Seat Sandal on the right, are the most dis- 
tant mountains. 

The best situations for viewing the Vale of Gras- 
mere are, Dearbought Hill, at the south-west ex- 
tremity of the lake, close to the road leading from 
Loughrigg Tarn; the field behind the house, called 
Town End, at the north-east side of the lake ; and 
Dunmel Raise. 

At the upper end of the vale is Helm Crag, a lofty 
pyramidical-shaped hill, the summit of which is co- 
vered with ragged pieces of rock. In the highest point, 
some poetical minds have discovered a resemblance to a 
lion and a lamb, and to an old woman stooping down; 
but these forms cannot be observed till the tourist has 
passed by the village towards Dunmel Raise. The 
latter has been alluded to by Mr. Wordsworth, in the 
following lines, describing the effects of echo amongst 
the mountains of Grasmere and its vicinity : — 

" When I had gazed perhaps two minutes' space, 
Joanna, looking in my eyes, beheld 
That ravishment of mine, and laugh'd aloud. 
The rock *, like something starting from a sleep, 
Took up the lady's voice, and laugh'd again : 
That ancient woman, seated on Helm Crag, 
Was ready with her cavern ; Hammar Scar, 
And the tall steep of Silver How, sent forth 
A noise of laughter ; southern Loughrigg heard, 
And Fairfield answer'd with a mountain tone : 
Helvellyn far into the clear blue sky 
Carried the lady's voice, — old Skiddaw blew 
His speaking trumpet; — back out of the clouds 
Of Glaramara southward came the voice, 
And Kirkstone toss'd it from his misty head." 

* A tall rock on the banks of the Rothay, between Grasmere and 
Rydal lakes. 



HELM CRAG. 55 

Sour Milk Gill, which falls into Grasmere at its 
north extremity, issues from Easedale Tarn, u small 
lake situated on the mountains about three miles dis- 
tant, and sheltered by Colddale Fell and Blakerigg. 
After heavy rains, it is seen from the road pouring 
down the mountain-side like a stream of molten silver. 
Connected with Easedale Tarn by a small runner is 
Colddale Tarn, containing a few perch and eels. 

The principal fish found in the lakes of Grasmere 
and Rydal are pike, perch (here called bass), eels, 
and trout. 

The derivation of Grasmere is uncertain. Some 
have supposed that its name originated in the grassy 
mere or lake here ; but others think that it is derived 
from the grise or wild swine w T ith which this country 
formerly abounded. 

There are two £Ood inns for the accommodation of 
travellers ; the Red Lion, in the village of Grasmere, 
and the Swan, on the high road, about a quarter of a 
mile beyond it. 

The pedestrian may make an excursion from Gras- 
mere to the summit of Helm Crag, going by Goody 
Bridge and Thornyhow, and returning by Turn How 
to the village, altogether about four miles. The sum- 
mit is covered with rugged stones, heaped together 
in every possible variety. Two of these form what 
are called the Lion and Lamb, when seen from the 
valley. The view from this spot embraces a grand 
range of mountains. 

From Grasmere, the road ascends a hill to Dunmel 
Raise ; Helm Crag gradually loses its fine form, and 
the views on each side become less pleasing. In rainy 



5f5 DUNMAIL RAISE. 

weather, an uninteresting mountain gap, called Green 
Burn, situated between Helm Crag and Steel Fell, is 
relieved by the sparkling whiteness of a cataract. 

DUNMEL, or DUNMAIL RAISE, 

Is a large heap or raise of stones, situated at the side 
of the road, at the gap or pass which separates the 
counties of Cumberland and Westmorland. The his- 
tory of this monument is by no means certain. It is 
generally supposed to have been formed by Edmund L, 
to commemorate his defeat of Dunmail, a petty king 
of Cumbria, A.D. 945. The king and his tw T o sons 
were put to death, and his territory bestowed on Mal- 
colm of Scotland. 

From this spot there are very extensive views. In 
one direction is seen the beautiful vale of Grasmere, 
and in the other, the vale of Thirlmere, with Hel- 
vellyn on the right, the Borrowdale Fells on the left, 
and Skiddaw and Saddleback in the back-ground. 

The view of the Vale of Grasmere, from Dunmel 
Raise, has been thus described by Mr. Gray : — "Just 
beyond it (Helm Crag) opens one of the sweetest 
landscapes that Art ever attempted to imitate. The 
bosom of the mountain spreading here into a broad 
basin, discovers in the midst Grasmere Water : its 
margin is hollowed into small bays with bold emi- 
nences ; some of rock, some of turf, that half conceal 
and vary the figure of the little lake they command : 
from the shore, a low promontory pushes itself far into 
the water, and on it stands a white village, with the 
parish-church rising in the midst of it ; hanging en- 
closures, corn-fields, and meadows, green as an erne- 



WYTHBURN. 57 

raid, with their trees, and hedges, and cattle, fill up 
the whole space from the edge of the water : just 
opposite to you is a large farm-house, at the bottom of 
a deep smooth lawn, embossed in old woods, which 
climb halfway up the mountain's side, and discover 
above them a broken line of crags, that crown the 
scene. Not a single red tile, no gentleman's flaring 
house or garden-walls, break in upon the repose of 
this little unsuspected paradise ; but all is peace, rus- 
ticity, and happy poverty, in its neatest, most becoming 
attire." 

The gap through which the road proceeds is 720 
feet above the level of the sea, and is the lowest pass 
in the chain of mountains which extends from Black 
Comb into the county of Durham. 

From Dunmel Raise ail the way to Thirlmere, the 
road is bounded on the right by craggy mountains, 
forming the base of the mighty Helvellyn. A river, 
which, near the Raise, divides the counties of West- 
morland and Cumberland, presents in wet w'eather a 
number of waterfalls. Thirlmere, bounded on the left 
by hills, is seen at the extremity of the valley. The 
rocks on the right beyond Dunmel Raise are called 
Riggle Knotts, Black Crag, and Fell Side ; and those 
on the left, Steel Fell and Nab Crag, between which is 
a green gap called Dale Head. 

At Wythburn is the Horse's Head public-house, 
situated halfway between Ambleside and Keswick. 
This is the best station from which to ascend Hel- 
vellyn, and here guides may be procured. The sum- 
mit of the mountain cannot be seen from the public- 
house, nor from any part of the road till within about 

d5 



58 HELVELLYN. 

three miles from Keswick; but the mountain track 
approaching it may be observed from the door : this 
track winds precipitously up the Middle Tongue be- 
tween Fell Side and Whelp Side. 

Opposite the Horse's Head is a small chapel; and 
looking directly across the valley from the back of the 
house, may be observed Dob Gill, a stream amongst 
the rocks, which proceeds from a little lake called 
Harrop Tarn, situated under Tarn Crag, a rock seen 
beyond the rivulet. This stream joins that in the vale 
a little before it reaches Thirlmere. 

HELVELLYN. 

This stupendous mountain is situated partly in Cum- 
berland and partly in Westmorland, on the eastern 
side of Thirlmere Water. According to the trigono- 
metrical survey, it rises 3,055 feet above the level of 
the sea. Its summit is not visible from the valley 
through which the road passes. The ascent is very 
steep, so that horses are never employed, but an active 
pedestrian will experience no great difficulty. He 
may reach the summit in about two hours, and descend 
in half that time. The tourist will, of course, provide 
himself with some refreshment. 

The views obtained in the ascent are not so striking 
as those from Skiddaw, but that from the top is very 
extensive and magnificent. Mountains, valleys, and 
lakes, in all their various forms, stretch before the eye; 
while here and there the view is interrupted by pro- 
jections of the hill on which the spectator stands. 
Immediately beneath are the Borrowdale Fells, the 
Langdale Pikes, with the adjoining hills, and beyond 



THIRLMERE. 59 

them the Irish Sea. Towards the south are seen 
Coniston Water, and portions of Windermere, as well 
as the estuaries of the Kent and the Leven, and the 
whole of Moreeambe Bay. To the north-west appear 
Saddleback and Skiddaw T , and to the right and left of 
the latter, but far distant, the mountains of Scotland. 
To the north-east is seen the lofty Cross Fell, and to 
the south-east, the broad head of Ingleborough, be- 
tween which are the mountains separating Westmor- 
land from Durham and Yorkshire. 

Helvellyn might also be visited from Patterdale, but 
the ascent is not so easy as from Wythburn, and one 
part, called Striden Edge, is dangerous. This, how- 
ever, may be avoided by going along Swirrel Edge. 
It was in attempting to cross this spot that a young 
gentleman, named Gough, lost his life, in the spring of 
1805. At Patterdale, he had inquired for a guide, 
but in vain, and snow having fallen, he was recom- 
mended to w T ait till the next day. He set out, how- 
ever, in the hope of reaching Wythburn, attended 
only by his dog, and perished by falling down the pre- 
cipice. His remains were discovered three months 
afterwards, guarded by his faithful companion. His 
fate has been commemorated in the well-known lines 
of Scott and Wordsworth. 

THIRLMERE, LEATHES WATER, OR 
WYTHBURN WATER, 

Is a lake of irregular form, about four miles in length, 
and in no part more than one mile in breadth. Its 
shores are deeply indented with bays, but almost 
entirely destitute of trees. It is bounded on the east 



60 THIRLMERE. 

side by the lofty and rugged Helvellyn, and on the 
west by the naked and gloomy crags of Borrowdale 
Fells. Its whole appearance is that of savage deso- 
lation. 

Thirlmere is situated on a higher level than any of 
the other lakes, being nearly 500 feet above the sea. 
Its depth is about eighteen fathoms. Near the middle 
of the lake the shores approach so near each other as 
to leave only a small channel, over which is thrown 
a rustic bridge. In the northern part of the lake is a 
wooded island of about half an acre ; and on the east 
side of the lake, close to the road, is a rock called 
" Clark's Leap," a person of that name having, it is 
said, thrown himself from it into the water, at his wife's 
recommendation . 

The best situations for viewing Thirlmere are, a 
small eminence on the left of the road, near the sixth 
mile-post ; the hill behind Dale-head House ; and the 
road along the western shore, which is only passable 
for horsemen and pedestrians. 

The high road, which passes along the eastern mar- 
gin of the lake, proceeds over many rugged knolls and 
under the steep and shaggy brow of Helvellyn, which 
rises on the right. It commands views of Bull Crag, 
Fisher Crag, and Raven Crag. 

Thirlmere derives its name of Leathes, from the 
family to whose estate it belongs, and that of Wyth- 
burn, from the valley in which part of it is situated. 

The road then leads through the narrow valley of 
Legberthwaite, interspersed with cottages and en- 
closures, and bounded on the right by rocks and pre- 
cipices. From a field on the right side of the road, 



SMALLTHWAITE. 61 

about one mile and three-quarters beyond Wythburn, 
there is a beautiful view of St. John's Vale, bounded 
on the left by a conspicuous solitary hill called the 
Great How, and on the right by Helvellyn. The bot- 
tom of the vale, which is narrow, is still more con- 
tracted, where the south end of N addle Fell projects 
towards the Rock of St. John, scarcely leaving room 
for the river, and the road upon its margin. Wan- 
thwaite Crags are seen over St. John's Rock, and 
Saddleback appears in the distance. 

At Smallthwaite, or Smeathwaite Bridge, the 
road crosses the river Greta, or Bure, which runs from 
Thirlmere through part of the Vale of St. John, and 
joins the Derwent at Keswick. On the right beyond 
the bridge is a road leading down St. John's Vale to 
Threlkeld. 

From Smallthwaite Bridge the road towards Kes- 
wick is steep, but, as it rises, affords a good retrospec- 
tive view of Helvellvn. On the left is Shoulthwaite 
Moss, above which rises a hill, called the Bend ; and 
on the right appears the craggy surface of Naddle 
Fell. A little further on is Rougha Bridge, and be- 
vond it on the right are seen Iron Crags. Various 
other prominences between these and Castlerigg attract 
notice ; the most conspicuous are Gate Crag and Dodd. 
The mountain called Calva is seen between Skiddaw 
and Saddleback ; and on the left, still nearer to Kes- 
wick, is a house called Scott How, above which Dodd 
is seen. From a spot about two miles and a quarter on 
this side of Keswick, the three mountains of Saddle- 
back, Skiddaw, and Helvellyn may be seen : the first 
is partly concealed by Skelthwaite Crag. 



62 KESWICK. 

The road then ascends to the ridge called Castle 
Rigg. From this eminence there is an enchanting 
view of the Vale of Keswick, including the Lakes of 
Derwent and Bassenthwaite, the river serpentining 
through the meadows between them, the town of Kes- 
wick, Crossthwaite Church, and the Vale of Newlands. 
The whole is encircled by bold and lofty mountains. 
To the right are seen Saddleback and Skiddaw ; in 
front Grisdale Pike, Causey Pike, and Grasmoor ; and 
to the left the commencement of Borrowdale. 

KESWICK 

Is a small market-town, with 2,159 inhabitants, de- 
lightfully situated on the banks of the Greta or Bure, 
which joins the river Derwent at a short distance. It 
stands on the eastern side of a fertile vale, between the 
foot of Skiddaw and the north end of Derwent Water. 
Its general appearance is by no means prepossessing. 
The streets are narrow, and most of the houses low 
and inconvenient. The market-place is small, and 
the town-hall insignificant. The houses are chiefly 
built in one street, through which runs the high road 
from Ambleside to Cockermouth. Out of this street 
another leads to Penrith, and a third, along the side 
of Derwent Water, to Borrowdale. 

The climate here differs considerably from other 
parts of England, being neither so hot in summer nor 
so cold in winter, but always more rainy, on account 
of its vicinity to lakes and mountains. 

The central situation of Keswick renders it the me- 
tropolis of the lakes, and many tourists make it their 
head-quarters. The Royal Oak, and the Queen's 



KESWICK. 63 

Head, are the principal inns; but there are others 
where small parties may be accommodated, as well 
as many neatly-furnished private lodgings. Guides, 
horses, and carriages may also be obtained here, and 
pleasure-boats for excursions on Derwent Water, which 
is about half a mile distant. 

The coach from Kendal to Whitehaven passes 
through Keswick every day, except Sunday, about 
11 o'clock; and that from Whitehaven to Kendal 
leaves Keswick about 3 in the afternoon. There is 
also a coach from Keswick to Penrith. 

Keswick possesses two museums, containing speci- 
mens of the minerals found in the vicinity, various 
kinds of plants, British and Roman antiquities, coins, 
&c. One was founded in 1779, by Mr. Crosthwaite, 
and is continued by his son ; and the other belongs to 
Mr. Hutton. Both contain articles for sale. There 
is also a circulating library. 

Keswick, more properly called Crossthwaite, Church, 
is not quite a mile from the centre of the town, with 
which it is connected by a low and flat road : it con- 
tains several monuments ; the tower forms an excel- 
lent object from the roads, foot-paths, and seats in 
the vicinity. The vicar's house, on a hill between 
the church and the town, commands a fine view of 
Derwent Water and its vicinity. This town also 
contains meeting-houses for the Independents and 
Wesleyans, 

The poor-house was founded in the time of 
Charles I., by Chief Justice Banks, a native of this 
place. The market, held on Saturday, was established 
as far back as the reign of Edward I., who granted this 



64 DERWENT WATER. 

privilege on application from one of the Derwentwater 
family, to whom the manor belonged. 

Keswick Bridge will be interesting to the artist as 
the subject of the first original picture by the late 
Sir George Beaumont. 

The chief manufacture carried on here is that of 
woollens, blankets, kerseys, &c. There are also manu- 
factories of black-lead pencils, the mineral being found 
in the mines of Borrowdale. Scythes, shovels, and 
edge tools are likewise made here. 

Amongst the villas near Keswick is Greta Hall, the 
seat of Robert Sou they, Esq. the poet-laureate. It is 
situated on the right hand, between the town and the 
church. 

DERWENT WATER. 

The distance from the inns at Keswick to that part of 
the lake where the boats are moored, is rather more 
than half a mile. 

Derwent Water is a beautiful lake, of irregular form, 
extending, from north to south, rather more than three 
miles ; and in breadth, about a mile and a half. Its 
depth varies from 3 to 14 fathoms. The principal 
feeders of the lake are the Derwent and the Lowdore, 
which descend from the valleys of Borrowdale and 
Watendlath. The former flows through it. The prin- 
cipal fish found here are trout, perch, pike, and eels. 
The trout are caught during April and May, and the 
perch and pike throughout the summer. 

The distinguishing characteristic of Derwent Water 
is, that, from whatever point it is viewed, it presents 
the same form, and never assumes the appearance of 



\ 



*rj$^7r&?f'j: ^yj^^ji & :y£):iiJ£:cr?ntAA&:£ * 




HirL^nas 



Jusi'ali Noole ScZSZ Strand. 



DERWENT WATER. 65 

a river. More than half of the immediate boundary 
of the lake is rich pasture-land, on which the trees are 
so sparingly scattered as little to impede the progress 
of agriculture, but the rest is closely environed by 
wood. The lake is bounded on the east by the fells 
of Castlerigg and Barrow, amongst \v hich Wallow Crag, 
Falcon Crag, and Eve Crag appear conspicuous. On 
this side, also, are Gowder Crag, Hollow Stones, and 
Blea Crag. On the south side, are seen Grange Crag 
and Castle Crag, in the valley of Borrowdale : and, on 
the west, appear Cat Bells and Causey Pike, between 
which is the Vale of Newlands. The north side of the 
valley is bounded by Skiddaw, the summit of which, 
in a straight line from the lake, is between three and 
four miles distant. The scenery formed by the combi- 
nation of these objects is varied and magnificent. It 
has been thus described by Mr. Pennant, who viewed 
it from the water : — 

u The views on every side are very different ; here 
all the possible variety of Alpine scenery is exhibited, 
with the horror of precipice, broken crag, overhanging 
rock, or insulated pyramidal hills, contrasted with 
others, whose smooth and verdant sides, swelling into 
immense aerial heights, at once please and surprise 
the eye. 

" The two extremities of the lake afford most dis- 
cordant prospects : the southern is a composition of 
all that is horrible ; an immense chasm opens, whose 
entrance is divided by a rude conic hill, once topt with 
a castle, the habitation of the tyrant of the rocks ; 
beyond, a series of broken mountainous crags, now 



66 DERWENT WATER. 

patched with snow, soar one above the other, over- 
shadowing the dark-winding deep of Borrowdale. 

" But the opposite, or northern view, is, in all 
respects, a strong and beautiful contrast. Skiddaw 
shows its vast base ; and bounding that part of the 
vale, rises gently to a height that sinks the neighbour- 
ing hills ; opens a pleasing front, smooth and verdant, 
smiling over the country like a gentle, generous lord, 
while the fells of Borrowdale frown on it like a hard- 
ened tyrant. 

fK Each boundary of the lake seems to take part with 
the extremities, and emulate their appearance; the 
southern varies in rocks of different forms, from the 
tremendous precipice of Lady's Leap, the broken front 
of Falcon's Nest, to the more distant concave curva- 
ture of Lowdore, an extent of precipitous rocks, with 
trees vegetating from their numerous fissures, and the 
foam of a cataract precipitating amidst. 

" The entrance into Borrowdale divides the scene, 
and the northern side alters into milder forms ; a salt 
spring, once the property of the monks of Furness, 
trickles along the shore : hills, the resort of shepherds, 
with downy fronts and lofty summits, succeed, with 
wood clothing their bases to the water's edge." 

Derwent Water is adorned with several islands of 
considerable extent, which rise with gentle and regular 
curvatures above the surface, covered with verdure, 
and richly clothed with wood. 

Lord's Island, consisting of six acres, is the 
largest, and is situated near the shore. It is so called 
from having been the site of the house of the Earl of 






DERWENT WATER. 67 

Derwentwater, traces of which are still visible. In. 
consequence of the active part which the last Earl took 
in the rebellion of 1715, it was forfeited to the crown, 
together with the other estates of that family in the 
vicinity. The whole is now appropriated to the sup- 
port of Greenwich Hospital. 

Vicar's, or Derwent Isle, containing about 5J 
acres, belongs to General Peachy, and is beautifully 
laid out in pleasure-grounds, surrounding a handsome 
house. It is said to have derived its name from 
having been the property of Fountains Abbey. It was 
for some years called Pocklington's Island, from the 
gentleman who formerly possessed it ; and is occa- 
sionally styled Derwent Isle. 

St. Herbert's Island, consisting of four acres, near 
the centre of the lake, is celebrated as having been 
the residence of St. Herbert, who, according to the 
venerable Bede, died in 687. Vestiges of his chapel 
and cell are still shown ; and near them is a small 
grotto built by the late Sir Wilfred Lawson, to whose 
successor the island now belongs. Mr. Gilpin says, 
" If a painter were desirous of studying the whole cir- 
cumference of the lake, from one station, St. Herbert's 
Island is the spot he should choose ; from whence, as 
from a centre, he might see it in rotation." 

Rampsholme is a smaller island, not being more 
than an acre, covered with wood. It belongs to the 
Derwent Water estate. 

There are also other small islets, named Otter 
Isle, in a bay near the head of the lake ; Tripot- 

HOLME, and LlNGHOLMES. 

At the south-east corner of the lake, about 150 



68 DERWENT WATER. 






yards from the shore, is the Floating Island, a mass 

m 

of earth, about six feet in thickness, which is generally 
under water, but sometimes rises to the surface for 
weeks or months. It has appeared seven or eight 
times during the last thirty years, but always towards 
the close of a warm summer. Several attempts have 
been made to explain this phenomenon, but none of 
them appear very satisfactory. "The most rational 
conclusion," says Mr. Otley, " seems to be, that air 
or gas is generated in the body of the island, by the 
decomposition of the vegetable matter of which it is 
composed, and being produced most copiously in hot 
weather, the earth at length becomes so impregnated 
therewith, as to render the whole specifically lighter 
than the water, which then insinuating itself between 
the substratum of clay and the peat earth forming the 
island, bears it to the surface, where it continues for 
some time, till the volume of gas being reduced, the 
earth gradually sinks to its former level, to remain till 
a sufficient quantity of gas is again accumulated." 

Mr. Gilpin does not appear to have admired this 
lake as much as many other tourists. He says, " In 
the first place, its form, which in appearance is cir- 
cular, is less interesting 1 , I think, than the winding: 
sweep of Windermere, and some other lakes, which, 
losing themselves in vast reaches, behind some cape 
or promontory, add to their other beauties, the varieties 
of distance and perspective. Some people object to 
this as touching rather on the character of the river. 
But does that injure its beauty ? and yet I believe 
that there are very few rivers which form such reache 
as those of Windermere. 



DERWENT WATER. 69 

u To the formality of its shores, may be added the 
formality of its islands. They are round, regular, and 
similar spots, as they appear from most points of view; 
formal in their situation as well as in their shape, and 
of little advantage to the scene. The islands of Win- 
dermere are, in themselves, better shaped, more varied, 
and, uniting together, add beauty, contrast, and a pe- 
culiar feature to the whole. But, among the great 
objections to this lake, are the abrupt and broken lines 
in several of the mountains, which compose its screens, 
especially on the western and part of the southern 
shore, which is more remarkable than in any of the 
other lakes. We have little of the easy sweep of a 
mountain line ; at least, the eye is hurt with too many 
tops of mountains, which injure the ideas of simplicity 
and grandeur. I would be understood, however, to 
speak chiefly of the appearance which the lines of 
these mountains occasionally make. When we change 
our point of view, the mountain line changes also, and 
may be beautiful in one point, though it is displeasing 
in another." 

The surface of Derwent Water is sometimes violently 
agitated by what has been termed a bottom wind, 
because it is supposed to be air pent up at the bottom 
of the lake. This phenomenon varies as to its dura- 
tion ; sometimes the swell of the waves continuing only 
for an hour or two, and sometimes nearly a whole day, 
although no wind whatever is perceptible above the 
surface of the water. 

In wet weather, the lake frequently rises six or seven 
feet above the ordinary level ; and, during severe win- 
ters, it is often frozen over. The water is remarkably 



70 DERWENT WATER.' 

transparent. The scenery of Derwent Water may be 
viewed to most advantage from the surface of the lake, 
and from the following stations : — 

Castlehead, a wooded rock, about half a mile from 
Keswick, rising 280 feet above the level of the lake. 
From this eminence, a very fine general view of Der- 
went Water, Keswick, and the adjacent valley, is ob- 
tained. A winding path commencing on the left of 
Borrowdale road, half a mile from Keswick, forms a 
pleasant and safe avenue to the summit of Castlehead. 

Crow Park, a gentle eminence on the brink of the 
lake, about 300 yards from Keswick. This was for- 
merly a wood of oaks, but is now a verdant pasture, 
part of which was converted into a race-course in 
1818. It commands the whole of the lake, from end 
to end, looking directly into the valley of Borrowdale. 

Cockshot Hill, at a short distance from Crow 
Park, was formerly much recommended for a general 
view ; but the prospect is now quite obstructed by 
trees. 

The Vicarage, between Keswick and the church. 
This is the situation with which Mr. Gray was so 
much delighted. It should be visited in the evening. 

Latrigg, a smooth and verdant hill at the base of 
Skiddaw. From the crown of this eminence may be 
seen the following mountains, which are the loftiest 
in England : Skiddaw, Saddleback, Helvellyn, Bow 
Fell, Scawfell, High Man or Pikes, Gable or Gavel, 
and Grasmere. 

A walk to Friar Crag, three-quarters of a mile 
from Keswick, also affords fine views of Crow Park, 
Cockshot Hill, Castlehead, and the lake. This *is a 



DERWENT WATER. 71 

favourite promenade. The way to it from the town 
is by the little hills,, to the road passing on the right, 
Crow Park, and on the left, Cockshot Hill ; thence by 
a field called Strand's Hagg, to the last of the piers 
on the lake. Adjoining the pier is the north end of 
Friar Crag, to the south extremity of which, the walk 
leads, through a grove of oak and fir-trees. Here a 
bench is placed, commanding a view of nearly the 
whole circumference of the lake. 

Mr. Southey, in his Colloquies, says, "the best 
general view of Derwent Water is from the terrace, 
between Applethwaite and Milbeck, a little beyond 
the former hamlet. The old roofs and chimneys of 
that hamlet come finely in the foreground ; and the 
trees upon the Ormathwaite estate give there a richness 
to the middle ground which is wanting in other parts 
of the vale." 

Those who admire prospects from mountain tops, 
may ascend Causey Pike, Grisedale Pike, Cat Bells, 
and Skiddaw. 

Several writers recommend a voyage on the lake by 
moonlight, as the scenery then exhibits quite a new 
style of beauty. The best time for such an excursion 
is a little before, or at, full moon, and on a still evening, 
when the ear may be gratified with the sound of the 
distant waterfalls. 

Those who visit the lake in a boat, may be landed 
at the various islands, as well as to view the cascades 
of Barrow and Lowdore. A cannon is kept at the 
public-house near the latter, to show the effect of the 
echo. The price of a boat, with a single pair of oars, 
to go up the lake, is about 5<?« 



72 excursions to watendlath. 

Excursion on Derwent Water. 

From Keswick, walk to the strand where the boats 
are moored, rather more than half a mile, and there 
take boat — pass along the front of the rocky promon- 
tory called Friar Crag — then between the farm-house 
of Stable Hills and Lord's Island — Broom Hill, a 
wooded headland — land at Barrow House, and see 
the waterfall — walk to Lowdore Fall, or return to the 
boat, and proceed to the fall by water. If the weather 
be favourable, hear the echo produced by the dis- 
charge of the cannon at Lowdore — Floating Island, 
only occasionally visible — Mouth of the Derwent 
River — St. Herbert's Island — Water End Bay — land, 
and see the grounds of Water End, belonging to Lord 
William Gordon — Vicar's, or Derwent Isle, round 
which strangers are permitted to walk — return to the 
strand, and walk back to Keswick ; — altogether about 
8 miles. 

Excursion to Watendlath. 

Leaving Keswick, proceed along the road towards Bor- 
rowdale — turn to the left at the end of Barrow Com- 
mon — at Ashness Bridge across the stream which forms 
Barrow Cascade — proceed by the wooden bridge be- 
tween High Lowdore and Watendlath, to Watendlath. 
This village consists of about a dozen cottages, situated 
at the foot of a tarn fringed with trees, and guarded 
by rocky eminences, one of which is named Coatbar- 
row. The water of this tarn is derived from another 
called Blea Tarn, situated about two miles distant 
on the heathy mountain between Thirlmere and Bor- 



DRUIDS' TEMPLE. 73 

rowdale. The stream which runs successively through 
these two tarns afterwards forms the cataract at Low- 
dore. The adjacent Vale of Watendlath is extremely- 
picturesque, and has been extolled by some as supe- 
rior to Borrowdale and Gatesgarth Dale. Mr. Gilpin 
says, "We fell into a piece of scenery, which, for 
beauty and grandeur, was equal, if not superior, to any 
thing we had yet seen." Hence proceed to the charm- 
ing Vale of Rossthwaite, of which a fine view may be 
obtained from the road — return by Bowder Stone, 
Lowdore, and Barrow, to Kesw T ick; — altogether about 
13 miles, which may be performed on horseback. 

Excursion to St. John's Vale. 

Leaving Keswick, proceed along the road towards 
Ambleside for nearly five miles — pass Legberthwaite 
Mill — St. John's Rock, or Green Crag — Brame Crag 
— Lowthwaite — Threlkeld — thence to Keswick ; alto- 
gether about 14 miles, which may be performed in a 



carriage. 



Excursion to the Druids' Temfle. 

This remarkable monument is situated in the middle 
of a field, on the right-hand side of the old road to 
Penrith, about a mile from Keswick. It consists of 
an oval circle, 336 feet in circumference, formed by 
38 rude stones, varying from 3 to 8 feet in height. 
Within this circle are 10 other stones, disposed in the 
shape of a square, supposed to have formed the altar. 
— Return to Keswick by Castle Rigg ; — altogether 
about three miles. 

E 



74 SKIDDAW. 

From Keswick, tourists frequently make an excur- 
sion to the summit of 

SKIDDAW. I 

The distance from the town to the base of the moun- 
tain is about one mile, and thence a winding road of 
five miles more leads to the summit, which, according 
to Colonel Mudge, is 3,022 feet above the level of the 
sea. This is an excursion of considerable fatigue ; but 
if, on reaching the top, the weather should prove fa- 
vourable, the tourist will be amply compensated by the 
view. Persons who would find the exertion of walking 
too fatiguing may ride the whole of the way, excellent 
horses for this purpose being kept at Keswick. A 
guide will be absolutely necessary, as the mountain 
is frequently visited by sudden mists. Great-coats 
and cloaks will be found very pleasant companions at 
the summit of the mountain, where the air is remark- 
ably keen. The party should also be provided with 
sandwiches and brandy, to recruit their strength pre- 
vious to the descent. 

It is not easy to recommend the best time of the 
day for ascending the mountain, as that must depend 
so much on the state of the weather. Generally speak- 
ing, however, the morning is the best time, as soon 
after sunrise as possible. The whole excursion may 
be accomplished in about six hours. 

Leaving Keswick to ascend the mountain, the road 
passes Monk's Hall, with Ormathwaite on the left, and 
then winds round Latrigg, at the base of Skiddaw. 
The views unfolded in the ascent are of unparalleled 
beauty ; and that obtained from the summit, if the 



SKIDDAW. 75 

weather be favourable, is varied and magnificent. It 
cannot be better described than in the language o. 
Mrs. Radcliffe : — 

" We stood on a pinnacle commanding the whole 
dome of the sky. The prospects below, each of which 
had been before considered separately as a great scene, 
were now miniature parts of the immense landscape. 

"To the north lay, like a map, the vast tract of low 
country which extends between Bassenthwaite and the 
Irish Channel, marked with the silver circles of the 
river Derwent, in its progress from the lake. White- 
haven and its white coast were distinctly seen ; and 
Cockermouth seemed almost under the eye. A long 
blackish line, more to the west, resembling a faintly- 
formed cloud, was said, by the guide, to be the Isle 
of Man, who, however, had the honesty to confess, 
that the mountains of Down, in Ireland, which some- 
times have been thought visible, had never been seen 
by him in the clearest weather. Bounding the low 
country to the north, the wide Solway Frith, with its 
indented shores, looked like a grey horizon ; and the 
double range of Scottish mountains, seen dimly 
through the mist beyond, like lines of dark clouds 
above it The Solway appeared surprisingly near us, 
though at 50 miles' distance ; and the guide said, that 
on a bright day its shipping would be plainly dis- 
cerned. 

" Nearly in the north, the heights seemed to soften 
into plains, for no object was there visible through the 
obscurity that had begun to draw over the farther dis- 
tance; but towards the east, they appeared to swell 
again ; and what we were told were the Cheviot hills 

e2 



76 SKIDDAW. 

dawned feebly beyond Northumberland. We now 
spanned the narrowest part of England, looking from 
the Irish Channel on one side, to the German Ocean 
on the other ; which latter, however, was so far off as 
to be discernible only like a mist. 

" Nearer than the county of Durham, stretched the 
ridge of Crossfell, and an indistinct multitude of the 
Westmorland and Yorkshire highlands, whose lines 
disappeared behind Saddleback, now evidently pre- 
eminent over Skiddaw — so much so as to exclude 
many a height beyond it. Passing this mountain in 
our course to the south, we saw, immediately below, 
the fells round Derwent Water, the lake itself still 
remaining concealed in their deep rocky bosom. South- 
ward and westward, the whole prospect was a c turbu- 
lent chaos of dark mountains ;' all individual dignity 
was now lost in the immensity of the whole ; and every 
variety of character was overpowered by that of asto- 
nishing and gloomy grandeur. 

"Over the fells of Borrowdale, and far to the south, 
the northern end of Windermere appeared, like a 
wreath of grey smoke that spreads along a mountain's 
side. More southward still, and beyond all the fells 
of the lakes, Lancaster Sands extended to the faintly- 
seen waters of the sea. Then, to the west, Duddon 
Sands gleamed in a long line among the fells of High 
Furness. 

" Immediately under the eye lay Bassenthwaite, 
surrounded by many ranges of mountains, invisible 
from below. We overlooked all these dark moun- 
tains, and saw green cultivated vales over the tops of 
lofty [rocks, and other mountains over these vales, in 



SADDLEBACK. 77 

many ridges ; whilst innumerable narrow glens were 
traced in all their windings, and seen uniting behind 
the hills with others that also sloped upwards from the 
lake. 

"The air on this summit was boisterous, intensely- 
cold, and difficult to be inspired ; though, below, the 
day was warm and serene." 

SADDLEBACK 

May also be visited from Keswick, though it is not so 
frequently the object of attraction to strangers as Skid- 
daw, being at a greater distance from the town and not 
so easy of ascent. The tourist may proceed to the 
summit on foot or on horseback, but in either case he 
should take a guide. 

The foot- way is by Greta Bank, Brundholm, Der- 
went Fold, High Row End, round High Row Fell to 
Lile Fell, and thence by Priest Man to Linthwaite 
Pike. Then passing the foot of Scales Tarn, by Sharpe 
Edge to Atkinson's Man and Linthwaite Pike, return 
to Keswick ; — altogether about 12 miles. 

If on horseback, the tourist must proceed along the 
Penrith road as far as Threlkeld, and there turn 
abruptly to the left to High Row End, Linthwaite 
Pike, and Atkinson's Man, returning by the same 
route to Keswick; — altogether about 16 miles. 



78 



VII. From KESWICK to BORROWDALE, and 
round DERWENT WATER. 

Miles. 

Keswick to Barrow House .... 2 

Barrow House to Lowdore .... 1 

Lowdore to Grange 1 

Grange to Bowder Stone 1 

Return from Bowder Stone to Grange . 1 

Grange to Porting Scales 4J 

Porting Scales to Keswick . . . . 1 J 

12 

This excursion may be made either on horseback or 
in a carriage. 

On leaving Keswick, the road passes along the 
eastern shore of Derwent Water to Barrow House, 
which was built by the late Mr. Pocklington, and com- 
mands a good view of the lake. Behind this mansion 
is a beautiful waterfall, called Barrow Cascade. 
It is surrounded by trees,, and descends altogether, in 
several falls, 122 feet. Strangers are allowed to view 
it on application at the lodge. 

At Lowdore is a small inn, the apartments of which 
command good views of Derwent Water and Skiddaw. 
Behind the inn is the noted 

WATERFALL of LOWDORE. 

This cascade is situated in a wild glen; and, after 
heavy rain, forms one of the finest scenes amidst the 
lakes. It is then a stream of considerable size, bound- 
ing on the rocks with tremendous fury, and falling 
altogether, in its numerous cascades, about 150 feet. 
The effect is very much enhanced by the commanding 






LOWDORE. 79 

• 

aspect of the crags between which it is situated. On 
the left, Gowder Crag rises nearly 500 feet in height ; 
and, on the right, is Shepherd's Crag, from the fissures 
of which spring numerous trees, with their branches 
hanging in the most fantastic forms. In a calm even- 
ing, and after wet weather, it is said that this water- 
fall can be heard at a distance of 10 miles. In dry 
weather, it dwindles to a small and insignificant 
stream. It forms a conspicuous object from the 
surface of the lake. 

Mr. Gilpin makes the following observations on 
Lowdore : — " This waterfall is a noble object, both in 
itself, and as an ornament to the lake. It appears 
more as an object connected with the lake, as we 
approach by water. By land, we see it over a pro- 
montory of low ground, which in some degree hides its 
grandeur. At the distance of a mile it begins to 
appear with dignity. But, of whatever advantage the 
fall of Lowdore may be as a piece of distant scenery, 
its effect is very noble when examined on the spot. 
As a single object, it wants no accompaniments of 
offskip, which would rather injure than assist it. They 
would disturb its simplicity and repose. The greatness 
of its parts affords scenery enough. Some instru- 
ments please in concert, — others you wish to hear 
alone. 

" The stream falls through a chasm between two 
towering perpendicular rocks ; the intermediate part, 
broken into large fragments, forms the rough bed of 
the cascade. Some of these fragments, stretching out 
in shelves, hold a depth of soil sufficient for large trees. 
Among these broken rocks, the stream finds its way 



80 BORROWDALE. 

through a fall of at least a hundred feet ; and in heavy 
rains, the water is every way suited to the grandeur of 
the scene. Rocks and water in opposition can hardly 
produce a more animated strife. The ground at the 
bottom also is very much broken, and overgrown 
with trees and thickets, amongst which the water is 
swallowed up into an abyss, and at length finds its 
way through deep channels to the lake." 

Lowdore is shown by persons belonging to the inn. 
The way to it is through a small gate on the left of the 
road from Keswick. 

In a meadow fronting the inn, and sloping down to 
the water's edge, may be heard a very fine echo. A 
cannon is kept here for the purpose of gratifying those 
who are willing to pay 3<?. 6d. for its discharge. The 
reverberation may, in still weather, be distinctly heard 
nine times. Much of the effect, however, will be lost 
if the full charge of powder is not put into the cannon 
and properly rammed down. 

The road then proceeds to Grange, a small but 
ancient and picturesque village, consisting of a few 
farm-houses. A little out of the road, beyond the 
gate under Grange Crag, is a scene greatly admired. 
It is a view of Grange Bridge and the village of 
Grange, upon the banks of the river, having the 
wooded Holm Crag and other knolls swelling above 
the buildings, over which ascend Gate Crag, the 
Knitting Hows, and Blea Crag. On the left, a part of 
Grange Crag fills up the composition. 

Grange is situated on the west bank of the pellucid 
Derwent, just at the entrance of the narrow portion of 
Borrowdale, which here assumes the character of a 



BOWDER STONE. 81 

mountain-pass, and is known by the name of the Straits 
of Borrowdale. The mountains and crags on each 
side approach so close as only to leave a narrow 
channel for the Derwent ; whilst immense rocks, and 
fragments of rock, are seen strewn about in every 
direction. Passing through this wild scene for about 
a mile, w T e arrive at the 

BOWDER, or BOWDAR STONE. 

This is a huge rock, which appears to have been 
broken from the neighbouring crags by some violent 
convulsion. It stands at the edge of a precipice, on 
which it has fallen in so singular a position, that per- 
sons on opposite sides may shake hands through a 
hole underneath it. The shape of this stone is said to 
resemble a ship resting on its keel. It is supposed to 
weigh 1,971 tons 13 cwt., and to contain 23,090 solid 
feet. It is 62 feet long, 36 in height, and 89 in cir- 
cumference. From this spot there is a good prospect 
of the upper part of Borrowdale, with Castle Crag on 
the right, Eagle Crag, Glaramara, Bull Crag, and 
Serjeant Crag in the centre, and Scawfell Pikes in the 
distance. 

Castle Crag is a lofty and precipitous rock, par- 
tially covered with wood. It derived its name from a 
fortress which once stood on its summit, and guarded 
the pass of Borrowdale. This castle is said to have 
been built by the Romans, occupied by the Saxons, 
and afterwards given by one of the lords of Derwent 
Water to the monks of Furness. Of these facts, how- 
ever, there is but slight evidence. Traces of this for- 
tress were visible till within a few years, when they 

E 5 



82 DERWENT. 

were destroyed by the working of a slate-quarry. On 
the side of Castle Crag are paths by which the tourist 
may ascend to the top, where there is a monument in 
memory of Lord William Gordon. The summit com- 
mands a fine view of Derwent Water, the Vale of 
Keswick, and Skiddaw, in one direction, and of Bor- 
rowdale, with its rugged rocks, in the opposite. 

The tourist then returns to Grange, and crossing the 
Derwent, proceeds along a height above the woods of 
the late Lord W. Gordon, whose house, called Water 
End, is situated on a bay of the lake. The road com- 
mands good views of the lake, along the western side 
of which it proceeds, and crossing the entrance of the 
Vale of Newlands, joins the road from Cockermouth to 
Keswick, at Porting Scales, a village consisting of 
about twenty houses. It is situated on the gentle 
swell of a hill which rises from the lake. 

The Derwent, over which the tourist passes in this 
route, has its rise in Sprinkling Tarn on Borrowdale 
Fell, from which it passes in a steep descent of three- 
quarters of a mile to Styhead or Sparkling Tarn. At 
Taylor's Gill Band, it falls into the Vale of Seathwaite, 
forming a noble waterfall, fringed by trees. It is 
joined below Stockley Bridge by a stream descending 
between the Aron End of the mountain, called Sprink- 
ling and Allan Crags; and after that junction it 
passes the village of Seathwaite and the Wad Mines, 
and under Seathwaite, Strand, Folly, Langthwaite, 
and New Bridges, to its junction with another branch, 
which runs by Stonethwaite. 

This latter arm of the Derwent rises under Bowfell 
and Hanging Knott, and falls rapidly from Angle 



DERWENT. 83 

Tarn into Langstreth, down which it murmurs, under 
Serjeant Crag and Coom Head, to the foot of Eagle 
Crag, where it is joined by a more turbulent stream 
from the valley of Greenup, from which junction it 
passes to Stonethwaite and Rossthwaite Bridges. A 
little below the latter it joins the Seathwaite branch 
already described, and thence hurries over a stony bed, 
between Castle Crag and Bowlder Stone, to Grange, 
beyond which it expands into the lake of Derwent 
Water. Emerging from Derwent Water, it again 
becomes a river, but soon forms the lake of Bassen- 
thwaite. It then contracts itself once more to a river, 
and pursues its course, by Cockermouth and Work- 
ington, to the sea. 



84 



VIII. From KESWICK, round BASSEN- 
THWAITE WATER. 

Miles, 

Keswick, along the east side of the lake, to Castle Inn . . 8 

Castle Inn to Peel Wyke 2 

Peel Wyke, by the west side of the lake to the Keswick. . 8 

18 

BASSENTHWAITE, or BROADWATER, 

Is situated about four miles to the north of Derwent 
Water. It is rather more than four miles in length 
from the northern to the southern extremity, and 
varies in breadth from one mile to a quarter of a mile. 
It is formed by the river Derwent in its passage to 
the sea. 

Bassenthwaite is not so picturesque as the other 
lakes, but occasionally presents pleasing views. The 
eastern shore is deeply indented with three bays, at 
some distance behind which rises the lofty Skiddaw. 
The intervening space consists of cultivated ground. 
The western side of the lake is bounded by a range of 
hills falling abruptly to the water's edge. These are 
called Wythop Brows, and are partly rock and 
partly clothed with woods. 

Mr. Hutchinson gives the following description of 
Bassenthwaite in his History of Cumberland : — " This 
lake affords many bays, w T here you may, in some parts, 
push under the cover of a lofty overhanging grove, 
and in others, rocky coves, where you find the gentler 
echo favourable to music and a song. The painter 
has tamer landscapes here, but they are warmer and 



BROADWATER. 85 

more serene than those of Keswick. Soft pastoral 
scenes margin the lake on the eastern side, over which 
Skiddaw lifts an august brow, to give the boldest con- 
trast to the green and gently rising eminences, the 
scattered coppices, the velvet-dressed lawn, the rich 
verdure of the mead, the tranquil cottage, and the 
serene and shining mirror which the lake expands. 
The boldest landscape found here consists of irregular 
eminences, clothed with oaks, at whose feet a grassy 
margin lies to the water's brink, and holds some farm- 
hold ; whilst the sublimer mountains, pile upon pile, 
lift up their heads, and from the western sun cast long 
shades upon the lake, whose distant shores catch the 
surpassing beams, and glow with additional beauty, 
from the contrasting shades, over which the distant 
eminences mix their brows with the azure of the 
atmosphere.'" 

This lake is not so deep as Derwent Water, but the 
water is nearly as transparent. It abounds with pike, 
perch, trout, and eels. Salmon is also sometimes 
found here ; and the shores are frequented by a 
variety of water-fowl. 

The ride round Bassenthwaite may be enjoyed 
either on horseback or in a carriage. The road passes 
along the eastern side of the lake, but at some distance 
from it. The best views are to be obtained from 
Braidness and Scareness, both situated at a short 
distance to the left of the road. 

Thence the tourist proceeds by a few scattered 
houses, called Bassenthwaite Halls, to Castle 
Inn. In the immediate vicinity is Armathwaite 



86 PEEL WYKE. 

Hall, a mansion delightfully situated, and command- 
ing a good view of the lake. 

About two miles north of Armathwaite is the ver- 
dant hill of Caer-mot, on which are traces of two 
square intrenchments used by the Romans and the 
ancient Britons. 

At the foot of Bassenthwaite Water, where the 
Derwent emerges from the lake, is Ouse Bridge, 
from which there is a fine prospect of both shores. 
This is a handsome structure, consisting of three stone 
arches. It was erected by Sir R F. Vane, Bart., near 
the site of the old bridge, which was carried away by 
a flood. 

The tourist may then proceed to Peel Wyke, where 
there is a public-house, and along the western shore 
of the lake, returning to Keswick through Thorn- 
thwaite and Porting Scales. The road affords many 
pretty views : that, however, from Beck-Wythop, re- 
commended by Mr. West, is now obscured by woods. 
This is a charming ride, particularly in the evening, 
when the declining sun gilds the surface of the water. 



87 



IX. From KESWICKtoBORROWDALE, 
BUTTERMERE, and CRUMMOCK WATER. 

Miles. 

Keswick to Barrow House ...... 2 

Barrow House to Lowdore ...... 1 

Lowdore to Grange 1 

Grange to Bowder Stone 1 

Bowder Stone to Rossthwaite 1 

Rossthwaite to Seatallor ....... 2 

Seatallor to Honister Crag (summit of road) . 2 
Honister Crag to Gatesgarth ...... 2 

Gatesgarth to Buttermere 2 

Buttermere to Porting Scales, through the 
Vale of Newlands ........ 7\ 

Porting Scales to Keswick 1J 

23 

This excursion must be made either on horseback, in 
a cart, or on foot; as a carriage cannot go farther than 
Seatallor. Those who wish to visit Buttermere and 
Crummock Water in a carriage must take the course 
pointed out in the next route. 

As far as Bowder Stone, the tourist proceeds by 
the road already described, and then, having Castle 
Crag on the right and Bowder Crag on the left, to 
Rossthwaite, romantically situated in the middle of 
the valley, and surrounded by overhanging mountains. 
At this village is a small public-house. 

From the top of a green hill, in the vicinity, the 
valleys of Rosstwhaite, Stonethwaite, and Seathwaite, 
with the bordering mountains, form a series of grand 
views. 

To the left of the road, beyond Rossthwaite, is seen 
the small chapel of Borrowdale, erected about 1826; 



88 SEATALLOR. 

and behind it, the valley of Stonethwaite, bounded 
by Eagle Crag. Stonethwaite, one mile south of 
Rossthwaite, consists of about half a dozen buildings 
picturesquely interspersed with trees. The bridge, 
also, crossing the stream,, a little to the east of the 
houses, and backed by the neighbouring heights, is a 
pleasing subject for the artist. 

Eagle Crag is an immense pile of perpendicular 
rocks raised one above another by horizontal spaces 
of variously coloured vegetation. Its form is fine, 
and it makes a good back- ground to many neighbour- 
ing objects. On that part of Eagle Crag, opposite to 
Greenup, eagles occasionally built their nests, and 
hence the name of the eminence. These birds, how- 
ever, destroyed so many lambs that their extermi- 
nation became absolutely necessary, and this was 
effected many years ago by lowering a man down the 
front of the rock to take their nests. He was re- 
warded for his toil and danger by the neighbouring 
shepherds. 

The road then turns to the right, to Seatallor or 
Seatoller, where it begins to ascend a long and steep 
hill called Borrowdale Hawse, and is no longer 
passable for carriages. On reaching the summit of 
the Hawse, which rises 880 feet above the level of 
Derwent Water, a fine view is obtained of Honister 
Crag, on the left of the road. This immense and 
rugged rock rises abruptly from the valley 1,600 feet in 
height. On the opposite side of the road is Yew 
Crag. Both are famous for slate. From many 
quarries, where the descent is not particularly steep, 
the slate is conveyed to the valley below in carts ; but 






GATESGARTH DALE. 89 

in other places it is brought down by men, in hurdles 
placed at their backs, over ground so precipitous, that 
those not witnessing the act would deem it impos- 
sible. 

The tourist then descends to the farm of Gates- 
garth. Gatesgarth Dale, through which he passes, 
is a narrow valley, bounded by precipitous craggy 
rocks, the ruins of which are scattered in every direc- 
tion. Along the bottom runs the mountain stream, 
which falls into Buttermere Water. About half-wav 
down the dale, at the end of the stones which have 
fallen from Yew Crag, the hill is smooth and verdant. 
By ascending this hill two or three hundred yards, a 
good retrospective view of Honister Crag is obtained. 

Mr. Gilpin thus beautifully describes Gatesgarth 
Dale : — " The river, also, which runs through it, and 
is the principal supply of the lake, is as wild as the 
valley itself. It has no banks, but the fragments of 
rocks ; no bed, but a channel, composed of a rocky 
strata, among which the water forces its course. Its 
channel, as well as its bank, is formed of loose stones 
and fragments, which break and divide the stream 
into a succession of wild impetuous eddies. A stream, 
which is the natural source of plenty, is, perhaps, 
when unaccompanied with verdure, the strongest em- 
blem of desolation. It shows the spot to be so barren 
that even the greatest source of abundance can pro- 
duce nothing. The whole valley, indeed, joined in 
impressing the same idea. Fruitful Nature, making, 
in every part of her ample range, unremitting efforts 
to vegetate, could not here produce a single germ." 
One side of the dale, however, does afford pasture for 



90 BUTTERMERE WATER. 

sheep, but Mr. Gilpin saw the valley in misty weather, 
and this accounts for his error. 

The tourist then proceeds parallel with the lake, and 
passes the mansion called Hassness, a mile beyond 
which is the village of Buttermere, situated between 
Buttermere and Crummock Waters. It has a small 
chapel, and an inn called the Fish. The mountains 
visible from the door of the inn, beginning eastward, 
are, Rannerdale Knott, Grasmere, Whiteless Pike, and 
Whiteless, and beyond the intersections of the latter 
two, Wandup. Buttermere Moss appears on the 
right, and, between it and Whiteless, Knott Rigg. 

From an eminence, called Hartley Hill, behind the 
village, there is a fine view of the two lakes, the valley, 
and the adjacent hills. In front is seen Sour Milk 
Gill, so called from its frothy whiteness, resembling 
buttermilk from the churn. It has its rise in Burt- 
ness, Bleaberry or Blebba Tarn, between Red 
Pike and High Stile, and falls down the mountain side 
into Buttermere Lake. The artist who wishes to 
study rocks and headlong waters cannot do better 
than scramble up the margin of this waterfall. Burt- 
ness Cove, a grand circular range of rocks between 
High Stile and High Crag, was formerly noted for 
eagles' nests. 

BUTTERMERE WATER 

Is situated in the vale of the same name, and is nearly 
surrounded by rocky mountains. It is about a mile 
and a half in length, a quarter of a mile in breadth, 
and 15 fathoms in depth. 

On the western side is a long range of mountainous 



CROMACK WATER. 91 

declivities, including' Hay Stacks, High Crag, High 
Stile., and Red Pike. On the eastern are Buttermere 
Moss and Robinson, with meadows and woods, afford- 
ing a fine contrast. One extremity of the lake sweeps 
round. a fine wooded promontory. Buttermere con- 
tains trout and char. 

CRUMMOCK or CROMACK WATER 

Is separated from that of Buttermere by a piece of 
arable land, about three-quarters of a mile in length, 
through which flows the river Cocker. This lake is 
of an oblong form, three miles in length, three- 
quarters of a mile in breadth, and 22 fathoms in 
depth. 

It is situated between two lofty mountains, Gras- 
mire, or Grasmoor, on the eastern, and Melbreak on 
the western side ; the latter descends abruptly to the 
water's edge, and leaves but few tracts for cultivation. 
The opposite shore is pleasingly diversified by bays, 
arable land, and coppices. The head and foot of the 
lake are adorned with wood, but the sides are distin- 
guished only by their boldness. There are several 
islands, but being situated near the shore, they add 
but little to the beauty of the lake. 

Crummock Water abounds with trout and char. 
The outlet is at the north-east corner, where a stone 
bridge of four arches crosses the river Cocker. 

The best situations for viewing the lake are from 
Buttermere Hawse, a rock on the east side, a mile and 
a half from Buttermere, and from the road between 
Scale Hill and Lowes Water. 



92 THE BEAUTY OF BUTTERMERE. 

Near the south-west extremity of Crummock 
Water is 

SCALE FORCE. 

The best way of approaching this waterfall is to hire 
a boat at Buttermere, and row down Crummock Water 
for about a mile. The distance from the landing- 
place to the cascade is rather more than half a mile, 
and the path is remarkably rugged. It may also be 
visited by land, but the distance by this latter method 
is a mile and a half, and the ground is extremely 
swampy. The charge made for the boat is 3s. 6d. 

Scale Force falls a greater height than any other 
cascade in Cumberland or Westmorland. It makes 
one clear leap of 156 feet, besides a smaller fall of 
44 feet. It is situated in a deep chasm, from 12 to 
20 feet in width, bounded by perpendicular rocks 
which rise to an immense height. Both sides are 
covered with a variety of moss, fern, ash, and oak, 
which are kept in constant verdure by the spray of 
the fall. The quantity of water is not great except 
after heavy rains, when the cascade swells to an im- 
mense size, and pours over the rock with a noise as 
loud as thunder. 

An interesting story is connected with the Vale of 
Buttermere, and is frequently related to travellers in 
their passage through it. It is entitled Mary of But- 
termere, and has its foundation in the following cir- 
cumstances : — Mary Robinson, the daughter of the 
innkeeper at the village of Buttermere, was seen by 
the author of " A Fortnight's Ramble/' in 1792, and 






KESKADALE. 93 

described as a very beautiful but artless girl of fifteen, 
— a very Lavinia, — 

14 Seeming when unadorn'd adorn'd the most.'* 

This encomium attracted many travellers to Butter- 
mere, and flattery destroyed the simplicity though not 
the virtue of its interesting peasant. In 1802, she 
was inveigled into marriage with an outlaw named 
Hatfield, who, under the assumed character of the 
Honourable Colonel Hope, had long violated the laws 
of his country, and was executed for forgery in 1803. 
After some years she was married again to a young 
man from the neighbourhood of Carlisle, and lived for 
a considerable time in the inn at Buttermere which 
had been her father's. She has since removed to the 
vicinity of Bassenthwaite Water. 

From Buttermere the tourist will return to Keswick, 
by the Vale of Newlands. The road has within a few 
years been much improved, and is now practicable for 
a carriage, though still so steep that it will occasionally 
be necessary for the tourist to alight and walk. It 
first ascends a very steep and lofty hill, called the 
Hawse, from the top of which there is a good view of 
the vale. In the middle- ground, amongst other sum- 
mits, are the two Cat Bells, and the ridge extending 
towards Causey Pike, the top of which is not visible 
from this spot : at some distance appears Saddleback, 
and, still further, the Blue Mountains, whence the 
rivers Tyne and Tees flow. The Hawse forms the ter- 
mination of the upper part of the Vale of Newlands, 
here called Keskadale. This portion is a mountain- 
recess, environed by smooth sloping hills, which are 



94 VALE OF NEWLANDS. 

adorned neither with wood, nor rock, nor broken 
ground, but sweep down from side to side with the 
greatest regularity. At the bottom is a narrow dell, 
down which rolls a torrent. A cascade of conside- 
rable size falls down the mountain-side, at the head 
of the dale, and after heavy rain, has a majestic ap- 
pearance, dashing from rock to rock, and foaming and 
fretting down the rough declivity. The mountain 
called Robinson is here a fine object, being the only 
one of rugged aspect. 

The Vale of Newlands, which succeeds, is a 
lovely scene, adorned with all the beauties of luxu- 
riant nature. It is richly decorated with wood, and 
is traversed through its whole extent by a sparkling 
stream. At its extremity is a considerable eminence, 
which divides it into two portions, one opening di- 
rectly on the beautiful expanse of Derwent Water, 
and the other turning towards Bassenthwaite Water. 



95 



X. From KESWICK to CRUMMOCK and 
BUTTERMERE WATERS, 

IN A CARRIAGE. 

Miles. 
Keswick to Braithwaite . • . . . . . 2 J 

Braithwaite to Whinlatter (summit) . 2§ 

Whinlatter to Lorton . 3 

Lorton to Scale Hill 4 

Scale Hill to Buttermere . 4 

Return to Keswick by the same route, . . .16 

(or through the Vale of Newlands, 9 miles.) 

32 

Leaving Keswick, the tourist passes through the vil- 
lage of Braithwaite, and ascends the hill of Whin- 
latter, which rises at least 800 feet above the adja- 
cent vale. This road commands fine views of Bassen- 
thwaite, Derwent Water, and Skiddaw. Beyond the 
sixth mile- stone it turns to the left, and, winding round 
the hill, presents a charming prospect of the Vale of 
Lorton, and a distant view of the Scottish mountains. 
In the extreme distance is seen Ben Garon, and more 
in advance Scrifell, with a range of inferior heights 
between them. The village of High Lorton, nearest 
the spectator, is seen on the east side of the vale ; and 
Low Lorton, standing under Low Fell, on the banks of 
the river Cocker, on the west. The church, in the 
midst of a wood, appears between these villages. 

The Vale of Lorton is about 2J miles in length, 
and is watered by the Cocker. It has been thus 
beautifully described by Mr. Gilpin : — " No lakes, 
no rocks, are here, to blend the ideas of dignity and 



96 SCALE HILL. 

grandeur with that of beauty. All is simplicity and 
repose. Nature, in this scene, lays totally aside her 
majestic frown, and wears only a lovely smile. 

" The Vale of Lorton is of the extended kind, running 
a considerable way between mountains, which range at 
about a mile's distance. They are near enough to 
screen it from the storm, and yet not so impending as 
to exclude the sun. Their sides, though not smooth, 
are not much diversified. A few knolls and hollows 
just give a little variety to the broad lights and shades 
which overspread them. 

" This vale, which enjoys a rich soil, is in general 
a rural, cultivated scene ; though in many parts the 
ground is beautifully broken and abrupt. A bright 
stream, which might almost take the name of a river, 
pours along a rocky channel, and sparkles down in 
numberless little cascades > Its banks are adorned 
with wood, and varied with different objects — a bridge 
— a mill — a hamlet — a glade overhung with wood, — 
or some little sweet recess, or natural vista, through 
which the eye ranges, between irregular trees, along 
the windings of the stream." 

At Stanger, about two miles north of Lorton, is a 
mineral spring, said to resemble those of Cheltenham. 

At Scale Hill, about one mile from the foot of 
Crummock Water, is a commodious inn. Here the 
tourist may hire a boat, and row along the lake, to visit 
the cascade of Scale Force and the lake of Butter- 
mere, already described in the preceding route. Or, 
he may drive by Buttermere Hawse, from which there 
is a fine view of the two lakes, to the village of Butter- 






T 



BUTTERMERE. 97 



mere, and thence visit Scale Force and the lake of 
Buttermere. 

From Buttermere he may return to Scale Hill, and 
thence to Keswick, by the Whinlatter road ; or pro- 
ceed to Keswick, through the Vale of Newlands, as 
described in the former route. 



98 



XI. From KESWICK to WAST WATER, 
ENNERDALE WATER, LOWES WATER, 
CRUMMOCK WATER, and BUTTERMERE 
WATER, 

ON HORSEBACK IN TWO DAYS. 

Miles. 

Keswick to Lowdore #3 

Lowdore to Grange 1 

Grange to Bowder Stone • i s 

Bowder Stone to Rossthwaite. .... 1 

Rossthwaite to Seatallor 2 

Seatallor to Seathwaite • 1 

Seathwaite to Stye Head ,3 

Stye Head to Wastdale Head 2 

Wastdale Head to Strands 6 

Strands to Gosforth , 4 

Gosforth to Calder Bridge 3 

First Day . . . . 27 

Calder Bridge to Ennerdale Bridge ... 7 

Ennerdale Bridge to Lamplugh .... 3 

Lamplugh to Lowes Water 4 

Lowes Water to Scale Hill 2 

Scale Hill to Keswick by Buttermere and 

Vale of Newlands 13 

Second Day. . , . 29 

This is the most convenient plan of an excursion for 
persons who prefer riding on horseback, as it enables 
them to view Borrowdale as well as these five lakes in 
two days. On the first day, they will see Borrowdale 
and Wast Water ; and, on the second, Ennerdale 
Water, Lowes Water, Crummock Water, and Butter- 
mere. The road is in many places over very rugged 



BLACK LEAD MINES. 99 

ground, particularly in the descent from Stye Head to 
Wastdale, so as to be not only difficult to travel, but, 
to delicate persons, laborious and alarming. Being 
passed, however, in the early part of the first day, the 
remainder of the ride from Wastdale Head to Calder 
Bridge is generally over smooth gound. The second 
day's ride from Calder Bridge is over a good road, 
though occasionally hilly. Those who think two days 
are not sufficient for this excursion, may occupy three, 
sleeping the first night at Strands, and the second at 
Scale Hill. 

The road from Keswick to Seatallor has already 
been described. Half a mile beyond Seatallor Bridge 
is Seathwaite Bridge, crossing an arm of the river 
Derwent. Beyond it is seen the village of Seathwaite, 
and crossing the head of the vale, appear Aaron End 
and Sparkling, with the shaggy surface of Great End 
rising above them. Keppel Crag and Hind Crag are 
on the left, and Bay's Brown on the right. 

Seathwaite is a small village at the extremity of 
Borrowdale, completely shut in by mountains, w T hich 
exclude the sun for a considerable part of the year. 
In Gillercoom, a circular recess in the hill to the right 
of Seathwaite, are the 

WAD, or BLACK LEAD MINES. 

They are situated on the south-eastern side of Sea- 
tallor Fell, a lofty mountain covered with hazels, 
except at the summit, w T here it is completely naked. 
These are the only mines of the kind in England* 
The period of their discovery is unknown, but they 
were certainly worked previous to the seventeenth 
L.3fC. f2 



100 BLACK LEAD MINES. 

century, and have been occasionally open ever since. 
The mineral has also been found in Ayrshire, Inver- 
ness-shire, and in foreign countries, but of a very 
inferior quality. 

Various names have been given to the mineral found 
here, but as many of them denote other substances, 
they do not appear very appropriate. It is called on 
the spot, wad, and in other places plumbago, or black 
lead, though lead forms no part of its composition. 
The terms black cawke and graphite have likewise 
been applied to it. It is principally used for the 
manufacture of pencils, great quantities of which are 
made at Keswick; but is also employed in making 
crucibles, polishing iron, diminishing the friction of 
machinery, &c. 

The mine was formerly worked only at intervals, a 
sufficient quantity being procured in a short time to 
last for several years ; but the market being consi- 
derably extended, and the difficulty of finding the 
mineral increased, the working has lately been carried 
on more constantly. 

The wad is not found in veins, but in irregular 
masses, some of which weigh four or five pounds. 
Many of these pieces are of little value, being hard 
and gritty ; but those which are soft and of fine tex- 
ture are worth several guineas a pound. These masses 
are usually found in the form of a tree, the trunk being 
of the finest quality, and the branches inferior to it. 
When taken out of the mine, the wad is sorted ac- 
cording to its various qualities, and the best sent to 
London, where it is sold to the dealers once a month. 
The pencil-makers of Keswick receive their supply 



STYE HEAD. 101 

from the metropolis, as the proprietors of the article 
will not allow any to be sold till it has been deposited 
in their own warehouse. 

At the entrance of the mine is a house, built for the 
residence of the overseer, and here the labourers are 
examined on leaving their work. 

The way from Seathwaite to the mine is over a 
rustic bridge, called Far Bridge. 

Beyond Seathwaite, the road dwindles to a mountain 
track, passable only by horses accustomed to the coun- 
try. To the right is a waterfall, called Taylor's Gill, 
which, after heavy rains, is a fine object, dashing from 
rock to rock with resistless fury. The avenue to this 
fall is through a profusion of trees, which assist in 
forming good subjects for the artist. After the tourist 
has proceeded about a mile, he crosses Stockley 
Bridge, a single arch of stone, and begins the ascent 
of the mountain called Sparkling or Stye Head. The 
road winds steeply up that part of the mountain called 
Aaron End, having, on the right, Bay's Brown, and 
Taylor's Gill Band. A retrospective glance will com- 
mand Borrowdale, Grange Fell, and Wallow Crag, 
above which appears Saddleback. Taylor's Gill mur- 
murs by the side of the tourist's path all the way to 
Stye Head Tarn. 

Stye Head is a steep and precipitous crag, situated 
between the two lofty mountains of Scaw Fell and 
Great Gavel. The summit rises about 1 ,250 feet above 
the adjacent vale : it is a rocky plain, about three- 
quarters of a mile in length, bounded on each side by 
slaty crags. In its centre is Sparkling or Stye Head 
Tarn, a deep lake, nearly a mile in circumference* 



102 SCAW FELL. 

abounding with trout. Passing by this lake, the lofty 
crag of Great End is seen on the left ; and,, beyond it, 
the highest of the Scawfell Pikes. To the right is 
Great Gavel. 

If the tourist has leisure, he may deviate a little 
from his route to visit Sprinkling Tarn, which is 
connected with Stye Head Tarn by a stream about a 
mile long. It is situated beneath Great End Crag, 
and abounds with excellent trout. The ascent to it is 
steep. 

From the side towards Seathwaite, Stye Head com- 
mands a complete view of Borrowdale, and of the Vale 
of Keswick. The prospect from the opposite side of 
the hill is magnificent. In front rises the mighty Scaw 
Fell, towering above the intervening space, which 
comprehends the fertile valley of Wastdale; and, in 
the distance, appears the sea. 

SCAW FELL, or SCA FELL, 

The highest mountain in England, is divided into two 
summits, separated from each other by a deep chasm 
called Mickle Door. Both are surrounded by frightful 
precipices ; and the highest is surmounted by a pile of 
stones, raised for the purpose of the trigonometrical 
survey. The " Pikes," as it is here called, on the 
summit nearest to Stye Head, rises, according to the 
Trigonometrical Survey, 3,166 feet above the level of 
the sea. The southern summit, called Scaw Fell, is 
only 3,092 feet. 

Both the summits, but particularly the highest, 
command fine views : the Pikes may be most easily 
ascended from Seathwaite; and Scaw Fell, from Wast- 



WASTDALE HEAD. 103 

dale Head or Eskdale. A guide will be aosolutely 
necessary, as the mountain is far more difficult of 
access than Helvellyn or Skiddaw. 

From Stye Head, the tourist descends by a steep 
and narrow track into the valley of Wastdale. The 
road is well defined, and kept in tolerable repair ; it is 
full of sharp turns and bends, which, though they 
lengthen the journey, render it much easier than if 
carried forward in a straight line. From the top of 
the Stye is seen the Vale of Wastdale, and in the dis- 
tance Yewbarrow. The road is carried down the side 
of Great Gavel, whose surface is one series of huge 
projecting rocks. On the left, over the deep ravine 
below the road, appear Great End and the Pikes, the 
latter being gradually lost behind Broad Crag. Nearer 
the bottom of the valley, projecting from the top of 
Lingmell, are Lingmell Crags. Over the lower end 
of Lingmell is seen a small portion of the lake, and 
beyond it the sea. At the foot of the pass, rude rocks 
are exchanged for soft verdure and an easy passage to 
Wastdale Head. 

Wastdale Head is a small and very rural hamlet, 
consisting of not more than a dozen houses, and a 
small chapel. It is surrounded by about 400 acres of 
level land, which is divided into fields by stone walls. 
There is no inn, but strangers may readily obtain 
refreshment of the farmers residing here, whose kind- 
ness they will, of course, acknowledge by a suitable 
donation. 

The tourist then proceeds along the northern shore 
of Wast Water, passing Over Beck Bridge, Nether 



104 WAST WATER. 

Beck Bridge, and a few houses called Crook. An 
excursion up the stream from Over Beck Bridge would 
present some pretty scenery and a waterfall. The re- 
trospective views from the road along the lake should 
not be forgotten, as the mountains afford many good 
combinations. 

WAST WATER. 

This lake is about three miles in length, and three-quar- 
ters of a mile at its greatest breadth. It is remarkable 
for its depth, which is between 40 and 50 fathoms, and. 
is never frozen over. The mountains surrounding 
Wast Water are lofty and majestic; but its immediate 
banks present but little variety. The whole of the 
south-east shore consists of a high ridge called the 
Screes, fragments of which are constantly falling into 
the water. The north-west shore is not so lofty, and 
gradually loses its mountainous character as it ap- 
proaches the foot of the lake, which is adorned with 
wood. The mountains bounding the west side of the 
lake are Buckbarrow, Middle Fell, and Yewbarrow. 
On the north of Middle Fell runs Nether Beck, and 
on the south of Yewbarrow, Over Beck ; these rivers 
and the lake enclosing three sides of an extensive plot 
of cultivated land, called Bowderdale : on the four 
sides rise rugged mountains, the most prominent of 
which is Knott End. Lingmell, which is the base of 
Scawfell and the Pikes, lies at the northern end or 
head of the lake ; and Latterbarrow on the south. 

Wast Water abounds with trout, and char are occa- 
sionally caught in it. 



MAYBOROUGH. 113 

Miles. 

Eamont Bridge 1 

Arthur's Round Table £ 

Mayburgh ... £ 

Return to Arthur's Round Table . \ 

Lowther Bridge J 

Brougham Hall { 

Countess's Pillar \\ 

Brougham Castle J 

Penrith \\ 

6 

Eamont Bridge crosses the river of the same name, 
which here forms the boundary between Cumberland 
and Westmorland. On each side of it are houses, 
which together form a considerable village. 

Contiguous to the road is Arthur's Round Table, 
a curious memorial of ancient times. It is a circular 
green spot, 29 yards in diameter, enclosed by a ditch 
and mound, both in sufficient preservation to show its 
original form. It is supposed to have been the scene 
of tournaments in the days of chivalry. 

MAYBURGH,or Mayborough^o the west of Arthur r s 
Round Table on the right of the road towards Pooley 
Bridge, is a hill, on the summit of which is a circular 
enclosure, 100 yards in diameter, formed by a ridge of 
pebble-stones curiously constructed. Near the centre 
of the circle is a massive column of unhewn stone, 1 1 
feet in height, and 22 feet in circumference about the 
middle. Some have supposed that Mayburgh was 
a Roman amphitheatre ; and others, that it was a 
druidical temple or court of judicature. 

The tourist then returns to Arthur's Round Table, 
a quarter of a mile beyond which is Lowther Bridge, 
crossing the river Lowther. Passing from the bridge 



114 BROUGHAM CASTLE. 

on the Appleby road, in front is seen Brougham Hall, 
partially obscured by trees. 

Brougham Hall, the seat of the celebrated states- 
man and orator, is a venerable fabric, erected at va- 
rious periods, and surrounded by shrubberies and 
pleasure-grounds. From the terrace, in front of the 
house, there are fine views. 

Half a mile from Brougham Hall is Clifton Hall, 
once the residence of the Wyberghs, now reduced to 
a solitary tower. From the rectory-house of Clifton 
there is a good view. 

The Countess's Pillar is situated in Whinfield 
Park, about fifty yards beyond the third mile-stone on 
the old road to Appleby. It was erected in 1656, by 
Ann, Countess Dowager of Pembroke, in honour of 
her mother, Mary, Countess Dowager of Cumberland. 

Brougham Castle is a noble ruin, standing on the 
site of the ancient Brovoniacum, at the junction of 
the Eamont and the Lowther. This was formerly the 
castle of the Viponts, from whom it descended to the 
Cliffords, and thence to the Tuftons, Earls of Thanet, 
in whose family it still remains. 



Other Excursions may be made from Penrith to the 
following places : — Giant's Cave, 3J miles distant, 
situated on the banks of the Eamont. This cavern is 
said to have been inhabited, in former times, by a 
notorious robber. 

Long Meg and her Daughters, at Little Salkeld 
six miles north-east from Penrith. This is one of the 



LOWTHER CASTLE. 115 

most remarkable druidical circles in the north of Eng- 
land. It is situated on the top of a small hill, and is 
formed by 67 stones, many of which are 10 feet in 
height, and one of them 15. 

LOWTHER CASTLE, 

The magnificent seat of the Earl of Lonsdale, and one 
of the finest mansions in England, is situated about 
five miles from Penrith. It is surrounded by an exten- 
sive and well- wooded park, on the banks of the river 
Lowther. 

Lowther Castle was erected a few years since on 
the site of an old and decayed mansion, which had 
been partly destroyed by fire. It is a noble structure 
of pale freestone. The principal front, towards the 
north, presents numerous towers of different forms and 
elevation, surmounted with battlements, and pierced 
with slit windows, so as to resemble an ancient castle: 
it is 420 feet in length. That towards the south has a 
totally different character, being adorned with niches, 
pinnacles, and cloisters in the Gothic style. The 
views from the terrace, along the principal front, are 
beautiful. 

The interior is fitted up in the Gothic style, and all 
the principal apartments display great taste. The 
staircase, which is 90 feet in height and 60 feet 
square, is particularly splendid; and many of the 
rooms are adorned with choice specimens of painting 
and sculpture. Strangers are allowed to see the inte- 
rior every day. 



116 



XIII. From PENRITH to ULLSWATER and 

PATTERDALE. 

Miles. 
Penrith to Pooley Bridge, by Dalemaia . . • • . 6 

Pooley Bridge by Watermillock, to Gowbarrow Park . 4 

Gowbarrow Park to Patterdale 5 

Return to Penrith 15 

30 

From Penrith the tourist may proceed to Pooley 
Bridge, either by Eamont Bridge, Yanwath, and 
Tyrril, five miles ; or along the Keswick road, and 
through the beautiful grounds of Dalemain, six 
miles. Of course, he may see both roads, by going 
one way and returning the other. 

Pooley Bridge, at the foot of Ullswater, is a small 
village, situated on the river Eamont, and much re- 
sorted to by fly-fishers during the fishing season. It 
has an inn called the Sun, where the tourist may be 
well accommodated. No post-horses, however,, are 
kept; but saddle-horses and jaunting-cars may be 
obtained here, as well as boats for the lake. The 
charge for a boat with sculls to go up to the head of 
the lake and return, is 7s. Qd., or with oars, 10<?. 

Eusemere, situated on the edge of the water a 
quarter of a mile from Pooley Bridge, is remarkable 
as having been built by Thomas Clarkson, Esq., whose 
exertions for the abolition of the Slave Trade are well 
known. He sold it to the Earl of Lonsdale. It com- 
mands a fine view of the first reach of the lake, 
backed by Hallen Fell and the receding mountains of 
Martindale and Glenridding. 



ULLSWATER. 1 7 

Near Pooley Bridge is DuNMALLET,orDuNMALLARD, 
a small hill of conical shape, clothed with wood, form- 
ing a conspicuous feature in the scenery of Ullswater. 
Upon the summit are vestiges of a Roman fort, sur- 
rounded by a fosse, 110 paces by 37. This fort 
guarded the lake, and maintained the connexion be- 
tween Ambleside and Brougham. 

The summit of Dunmallet formerly commanded a 
fine view of Ullswater, but this is now completely ob- 
structed by the woods. Mr. Gray's description of the 
lake is equally applicable, with a slight alteration, to 
the view obtained at the foot of this hill. 

" The lake opened directly at my feet, majestic in 
its calmness, clear and smooth as a blue mirror, with 
winding shores, and low points of land, covered with 
green enclosures, white farm-houses looking out among 
the trees, and cattle feeding. The w r ater is almost 
2very where bordered with cultivated lands, gently 
sloping upwards, from a mile to a quarter of a mile in 
breadth, till they reach the feet of the mountains, 
which rise very rude and awful, w T ith their broken 
tops on each hand. Directly in front, at better than 
three miles' distance, Hallen Fell, one of the bravest 
amongst them, pushes its bold breast into the midst 
3f the lake, and forces it to alter its course, forming 
first a large bay to the left, and then bending to the 
right." 

ULLSWATER, or ULLESWATER, 

Is the largest of the lakes, with the exception of Win- 
dermere ; and is by many thought to combine the 
beauties of all the others. It has also the greatest 



118 ULLSWATER. 

average depth ; many parts, particularly towards the 
head, being from 20 to 35 fathoms. The lake is about 
nine miles in length, and one in breadth,, and abounds 
with fish, the principal of which are trout, eels, and 
skelly or gwiniads. A few char are likewise caught 
here, but they are not of the best quality. The water 
is clear, but not so transparent as that of Derwent 
Water, Buttermere, and Crummock. 

Ullswater is surrounded on all sides, except the 
east, by ranges of mountains. Those towards the foot 
are of no great height, and chiefly cultivated and di- 
vided into farms ; but, approaching the head of the 
lake, they assume a majestic form, rearing their rocky 
summits to the clouds. Here the mountains are inter- 
sected by several glens or small valleys, and their 
sides adorned with wood, producing a magnificent 
scene. 

Part of the north shore of Ullswater is in Cumber- 
land ; the remaining portion, and the whole of the 
southern coast, are in Westmorland. 

The principal feeders of Ullswater are Grysdale 
Beck, at the western corner, and Goldrill Beck, which 
descends from Kirkstone Fell. The superfluous waters 
of the lake have their egress by the Eamont, at the 
north-east extremity. 

The lake is of a zig-zag form, and may be said to 
be divided into three reaches, gradually improving in 
grandeur as the tourist advances towards the southern 
extremity. 

The first is a fine sheet of water, about three miles 
in length, bounded on each side by gentle hills, the 
bases of which are enclosed and skirted with trees. On 




Jonah Neelc tcSS2 Mi and 



ULLSWATER. 119 

the left, proceeding up the lake from Pooley Bridge 
is seen Swarth Fell — in front, Hallen Fell, and on the 
right, a sloping shore, adorned with villas, amongst 
which appear Ramsbach or Rempsbeck Lodge, Beau 
Thorn, Lemon House, and Watermillock. 

Passing round the promontory formed by Hallen 
Fell, we enter the second or middle reach, which is 
about four miles in length. On the right are seen 
Hallsteads, the seat of John Marshall, Esq.; Gowbar- 
rowPark, belonging to the Honourable Mr. Howard; 
and Lyulph's Tower : on the left are Hallen Fell, 
Birk Fell, and Place Fell. In front rises the lofty 
Helvellyn. 

The third, or upper reach, which is two miles in 
length, presents an exquisite combination of mountain 
and valley, lake and wood, far transcending in beauty 
the other parts of Ullswater. On the left is the dark 
and steep Place Fell; on the right, Stybarrovv Crag, 
and some ridges of Helvellyn and Fairfield, amongst 
which a bold hill, called St. Sunday Crag, appears 
conspicuous; and in front, at the head of the lake, 
the valley of Patterdale. In this part of Ullswater are 
four small islands, called Cherry Holme, Wall Holme, 
Ling Holme, and House Holme. The last is a good 
station for viewing the adjacent scenery. 

From Pooley Bridge the tourist may either take a 
boat and go up the lake to Patterdale, as just de- 
scribed, landing at Lyulph's Tower, and visiting Airey 
Force, which is half a mile distant ; or he may pro- 
ceed by the carriage-road, which passes along the 
north-west shore of the lake, to Patterdale. 

Pursuing the latter course, he leaves the village of 



^_ 



120 SWARTH FELL. 

Pooley ; and, crossing the bridge over the Eamont, 
arrives at the foot of Dunmallet, already described. 
From this spot there is a good view of the lake, along 
the margin of which the road passes. On the right 
is Waterfoot, a handsome villa, rebuilt in 1829. 
Beyond, appears Soulby Fell, clothed with wood ; 
and behind it, Maiden Castle, formerly occupied as 
a Benedictine nunnery. 

In his progress the tourist passes several handsome 
villas, particularly Ramsbach or Rempsbeck Lodge, 
in front of which is a lawn, sloping towards a wood on 
the shore of the lake. 

About a mile farther is Watermillock, a most 
beautiful mansion, surrounded by beech and sycamore- 
trees. The views from the several windows are said 
to differ both in objects and character. 

A little beyond is Beau Thorn, sheltered by a plan- 
tation of white thorns, from which it derives its name. 
Half a mile farther is Lemon House, fronting the 
opening into Martindale. 

The road then leaves on the left the farm of Old 
Church, so called from having been erected on the 
site of an ancient place of worship. On the opposite 
side of the lake is seen the barren and almost perpen- 
dicular mountain of Swarth Fell, down which the 
Swarth Beck pours its waters. In wet weather, the 
torrent forms numerous cascades, the noise of which 
may be heard at a considerable distance. This moun- 
tain is rendered remarkable by the almost miraculous 
escape of the late E. Hasell, Esq., the proprietor of 
Dalemain. Having, in the ardour of the chase, de- 
scended into a perilous situation, from which it was 



GOWBARROW PARK. 121 

impossible to return, he dismounted, and leaning 
against the side of his horse, supported by and sup- 
porting each other, they slid down the side of the 
mountain, and reached the bottom in safety. No 
person is known to have descended the mountain, 
either before or since that time. 

On a fine promontory to the left of the road is 
Hallsteads, the seat of John Marshall, Esq., an 
elegant mansion, surrounded by beautifully undu- 
lated grounds. It stands upon a gentle eminence and 
commands a fine view of the lake. Beyond Hall- 
steads the road runs at first near, and seldom far, 
from the lake, till it again approaches it closely at 
Yew Crag, a noble rocky prominence, about half- 
way between the head and foot of Ullswater, covered 
with picturesque trees, forming a fine subject for the 
sketch-book, 

Gowbarrow Park, through which the road passes 
for about three miles, was formerly the property of the 
Duke of Norfolk, who bequeathed it to the Honoura- 
ble Mr. Howard. It comprises about 1800 acres, 
and contains several hundred deer, besides sheep and 
cattle. Many of the oaks and thorns with which it is 
adorned are of great age. 

In Gowbarrow Park is Lyulph's Tower, a hunt- 
ing-box, erected by the late Duke of Norfolk. It is 
a plain building, in the castellated style, having four 
towers, battlements, and Gothic windows. Its name 
is said to be derived from Lyulphus, an Anglo-Saxon, 
who was killed at the time of the Conquest. It is 
now occupied by the keeper of the park, to whom 

G 



122 GLENCOYNE. 

application must be made in order to see Airey Force. 
The views from this station are beautiful. 

From Lyulph's Tower a path winds, for about half 
a mile, through a deep glen, to 

AIREY, or ARA FORCE. 

This cascade is entirely the work of Nature, and is 
completely secluded by rocks and trees. The whole 
height of the fall is about 80 feet. The water, being 
previously compressed in a chasm in the rock, rushes 
forth with great violence : in dry weather it is divided 
at the top into two streams, which unite before they 
have fallen half-way down, and dash against a pro- 
jecting rock, from which they are thrown off in sheets 
of foam. In wet weather it forms but one stream. 
When the sun is shining in a favourable direction, the 
spray exhibits all the colours of the rainbow. A cir- 
cuitous path leads to the top of the fall, from which 
the view is fearful. The visiter may return by a dif- 
ferent path to Lyulph's Tower. 

The whole space from Gowbarrow Park to Patter- 
dale is one rich but varied display of luxuriant foliage: 
oak, ash, birch, and alder, here flourish in the wildest 
manner, overhanging with their branches the rocky 
projections which start from the mountains in every 
direction. 

At the end of Gowbarrow Park is the farm of Glen- 
coyne, or Glencoin, situated in a beautiful valley, 
through which flows a streamlet, dividing the counties 
of Cumberland and Westmorland. Glencoyne sig- 
nifies glen in a corner. 



PATTERDALE. 123 

Stybarrow Crag then comes in view. This is 
a rugged and lofty hill, covered with oaks, which grow 
out of its crevices. It forms a fine object when seen 
from the lake, out of which it rises abruptly. 

A little farther, at the foot of the valley of Glen- 
ridding, is the tasteful cottage of the Rev. Mr. Askew, 
beyond which the road winds round the head of Ulls- 
water to the village of Patterdale. The little stream, 
which runs down the valley of Glenridding, forms 
several pretty cascades. It is supplied from Kepple 
Cove Tarn and Red Tarn, two little lakes near the 
top of Helvellyn. 

Patterdale Hall, at the head of the lake, is a 
modern-built mansion surrounded by plantations. It 
was formerly the residence of the Mounseys, who were 
styled kings of Patterdale. This appellation, it is 
said, they received on account of the gallant action 
performed by one of the family, who, assisted by a 
few shepherds, defeated a numerous band of Scotch 
robbers at the pass of Stybarrow Crag. 

Patterdale has a good inn, where post-horses are 
kept, situated about half a mile from the head of the 
lake. Opposite to it, on the side of Place Fell, and 
only half a mile distant, is a slate-quarry, from the 
edge of which there is a fine view of the mountains 
and of a part of the lake. From this spot may be 
seen the summit of Helvellyn. On the rock imme- 
diately behind the inn a small cannon is kept for the 
purpose of showing the effect of the echo. The sound 
of each discharge is repeated six or seven times. 
Mr. Hutchinson,, who visited Ullswater some years 

g 2 



124 GRAYDALE TARN. 

ago,, when the Duke of Portland's pleasure-barge was 
there, thus describes the impression produced by a 
discharge of cannon : — 

" Whilst we sat to regale, the barge put off from 
shore to a station where the finest echoes were to be 
obtained from the surrounding mountains. The ves- 
sel was provided with six brass cannons mounted on 
swivels : on discharging one of these pieces, the report 
was echoed from the opposite rocks, where, by rever- 
beration, it seemed to roll from cliff to cliff, and return 
through every cave and valley, till the decreasing 
tumult gradually died away upon the ear. The in- 
stant it had ceased the sound of every distant water- 
fall was heard, but for an instant only ; for the mo- 
mentary stillness was interrupted by the returning echo 
on the hills behind, where the report was repeated 
like a peal of thunder bursting over our heads, con- 
tinuing for several seconds, flying from haunt to haunt, 
till once more the sound gradually declined; again the 
voice of waterfalls possessed the interval, till, to the 
right, the more distant thunder arose upon some other 
mountain, and seemed to lake its way up every wind- 
ing dell and creek, sometimes behind, on this side or 
on that, in wondrous speed running its dreadful course. 
When the echo reached the mountains within the line 
and channel of the breeze, it was heard at once on 
the right and left, at the extremities of the lake. In 
this manner w r as the report of every discharge re- 
echoed seven times distinctly. 

From Patterdale an excursion may be made on 
foot to Grisedale, or Graydale Tarn, four miles 



GRAYDALE TARN. 125 

distant, situated at the junction of the three mountains 
Helvellyn, Seatsandal, and Fairfield; and thence to 
Grasmere Church, four miles more. 

The tourist may return to Penrith by the same route 
that he came; or proceed by Brothers' Water, and 
across Kirkstone to Ambleside, as described in Sup- 
plement No. 1. 



ihj^yiL^rtft 



126 



XIV. From PENRITH to HAWES WATER. 

Miles. 
Penrith to Eamont Bridge • . 1 

Eamont Bridge to Askham .... 4 

Askham to Bampton ...... 4 

Bampton to Hawes Water .... 3 

Return to Penrith 12 



24 

Leaving Penrith, the tourist turns to the right at 
Arthur's Round Table, between the rivers Eamont 
and Lowther, and passes through Askham, to the 
left of which is Lowther Castle, Butte rwick, and 
Bampton, long celebrated for its free-school, which 
was founded in 1623, by Dr. Sutton, a native of this 
parish. The church at Bampton is a neat building, 
erected in 1726. There are two inns. 

HAWES WATER 

Is about three miles in length, and varies in breadth 
from a quarter to half a mile. Near the middle, at a 
place called Measand, the banks approach so near to 
each other that the lake is almost divided into two 
distinct parts. On the side of the promontory which 
is thus formed rushes Fordingale Beck, a stream 
abounding with picturesque waterfalls. This lake is 
seldom visited, though it is distinguished by the 
solemn grandeur of its rock and mountain scenery. 
Amongst the mountains which rise above the head of 
the lake are Harter Fell, Kidsey Pike, and High 
Street. The country below the foot of the lake consists 



HAWES WATER. 127 

of gentle eminences covered with wood, and extending 
to Low the r and Askham. 

Hawes Water may be viewed to most advantage by 
passing along the horse-road upon the common, a little 
above the carriage-road. It presents, however, some 
fine views from the latter, as well as from many situa- 
tions in the enclosures between the two roads. 

A mile beyond the head of Hawes Water is Chapel 
Hill, consisting of a few modern houses, and a little 
further is Mardale Green, where there is an inn 
called the White Bull. The views from the parsonage 
at Mardale are interesting. It is remarkable that the 
Holme family has resided here ever since the reign of 
King John. 

Riggend ale forms a craggy descent from the moun- 
tain of High Street down to the bridge between Cha- 
pel Hill and Mardale Green. It may be said to divide 
the vale of desolation from that of fertility ; for, be- 
tween Riggendale and the lake, the river passes 
through level and cultivated lands : these are suc- 
ceeded by easy undulations and rocky knolls, over 
which the native trees are scattered, while others climb 
the rugged steeps towards the tops of the adjacent 
mountains. 

Hawes Water belongs to the Earl of Lonsdale. It 
abounds with perch, trout, eels, and chub. The 
char caught here are few in number and inferior in 
quality. 

The tourist may then return to Penrith by the same 
route, or, if on horseback, take that across Dovack 
Moor, indicated in Supplement No. 16. 



128 HAWES WATER. 

In the preceding pages we have given a " Tour of 
the Lakes/' which points out the best mode of viewing 
them ; but as many persons may wish to deviate from 
this plan, we shall subjoin, in a Supplement, an 
account of other routes, and thus render this volume a 
complete Guide for the Tourist, whatever course he 
may wish to pursue. 






SUPPLEMENT 



1. From AMBLESIDE to ULLSWATER and 

PENRITH. 



Ambleside to Kirkstone 
Kirkstoue to Brothers' Water 
Brothers' Water to Patteudale 
Patterdale to Gowbarrow Park 
Gowbarrow Park to Pooley Bridge 
Pooley Bridge to Penrith . 



Miles. 
. 4 



ox 
-a 

5 

4 
6 



25 

This route is not so favourable for viewing 1 Ullswater as 
that previously described; because it leads the tourist 
at once to the head of the lake, from which the beauty 
of the scenery gradually declines towards the foot. 

The road is rough, but passable for carriages. It 
crosses the mountain of Kirkstone, the ascent and 
descent of which are very steep. At the brow of 
the hill, on the left of the road, is a large stone, said 
to resemble a church without a spire, and hence it 
has received the name of Kirk Stone. From the 
small moor at the summit of Kirkstone, which is 
1200 feet above Ambleside, there is a fine view^, in- 
cluding the head of Windermere and the mountains 
of Langdale. 

After descending this hill about four hundred yards, 
the tourist perceives, on the left, a part of Scandale 
Fell, with bold projecting rocks hanging on its side, 
and on the right Colddale Fell, presenting steep shiver- 

g5 



130 brothers' water. 

ings of stone. In a deep bottom between the two lies 
Brothers' Water, with stripes of enclosed land at each 
extremity, and the woods of Hartshope Hall rising 
from it. The distance is formed by Place Fell and 

9 

other mountains near the head of Ullswater. From 
this spot the lake is alternately seen and lost all the 
way to the bottom of the hill, w T here a retrospective 
view is obtained from a projection of Scandale Fell, 
on the conical summit of which is a pike called Kirk- 
stone Dodd. In the opening on the left is seen a 
large mass of rock called Dove Crag. 

BROTHERS' WATER. 

This small lake is situated in that part of Patterdale 
called Hartshope. It is said to have derived its name 
from the circumstance of two brothers having been 
drowned together, many years ago, by the breaking of 
the ice. This, however, seems doubtful, as the ancient 
name of the lake was Broader Water, and the present 
is not unlikely to be a corruption. The views sur- 
rounding Brothers' Water are grand ; and the adjacent 
vale is fertile and well -wooded. 

The principal feeders of Brothers' Water are Kirk- 
stone Beck, which forms a number of little waterfalls 
on the right and left as the traveller proceeds down the 
road to the valley, and the beck which rises at Dove 
Crag, an immense rock, three miles to the west of the 
lake, and passes by Hartshope Hall. 

Beyond Brothers' Water the road leaves the village 
of Hartshope on the right, and twice crosses the 
Goldrill in its passage down the valley to Patterdale. 



HAYS WATER. 131 

About two miles east of Brothers' Water is situated 
Hays Water, which is much frequented by anglers. 
A small stream descending from it passes Low Harts- 
hope, and joins the rivulet issuing from Brothers' 
Water shortly after its egress. Angle Tarn, lying to 
the north of Hays Water, also supplies a stream, 
which makes a rapid descent to the valley, half a mile 
lower down. Both these tarns are famous for trout. 

From Patterdale the tourist may hire a boat to 
go down the lake, or proceed along the shore to 
Pooley Bridge, reversing the description given in 
Route XIII. 



2. From BOWNESS to CONISTON WATER 

and AMBLESIDE. 

Mile9. 
Bowness to Ferry House 1 J 

Ferry House to Sawrey 2 

Sawrey to Hawkshead 2| 

Hawkshead to Coniston Waterhead ... 3 

Waterhead to Borwick . 3 

Borwick to Ambleside ....... 4J 



Or, 



16i 



Hawkshead direct to Ambleside .... 5 



3. From KENDAL to AMBLESIDE. 

Miles. 

Kendal to Stavely 5 

Stavely to Ings 1 J 

Ings to Orrest Head ....... 2^ 

Orrest Head to Troutbeck Bridge . LJ 

Troutbeck Bridge to Low Wood Inn ... 2 

Low Wood Inn to Ambleside .... 1^ 

14 



132 ORREST HEAD. 

From Orrest Head there is a fine view of Win- 
dermere, with all its mazy windings and massive woods, 
its verdant plains and rocky mountains. About a 
mile to the right is Elleray, belonging to Professor 
Wilson. " Here," says the Ettrick Shepherd, " a 
number of my very best things were written." Elle- 
ray commands a view of both ends of Windermere — a 
circumstance which distinguishes it from every other 
villa in the neighbourhood. 



4. From KENDAL to BOWNESS 

Miles. 
Kendal to Bonning Yate 3 

Bonning Yate to Quakers' Meeting-house . 2J 

Quakers' Meeting-house to Clay Barrow . 1^ 

Clay Barrow to Bowness 2 



This route presents many pleasing views. The 
lakes of Windermere first bursts upon the eye about 
a mile and a quarter on this side of Bowness. Here 
it is seen spotted with its pretty islands, and skirted 
by shores ornamented with a luxuriant abundance of 
wood. Proceeding, the traveller will soon perceive 
Bowness and the lake beyond it lying in the valley 
beneath : the Rydal mountains raise their heads at a 
considerable distance. 



133 



5. From KENDAL to HAWES WATER, by 

Long Sleddale. 

Miles. 
Kendal to Watch Gate 4\ 

Watch Gate to Long Sleddale Chapel ... 3 

Long Sleddale Chapel to Sadgill Bridge . . 2 

Sadgill Bridge to Chapel Hill, at the head 

of Hawes Water 4£ 

14 

In taking this route to Hawes Water, the tourist 
must pursue the high road towards Penrith as far as 
Watch Gate, and there turn into a bye road on the 
left, which leads to Loner Sleddale. 

Long Sleddale is a long, narrow, and deep vale, 
enclosed by high ridges of rocky mountains. At the 
bottom is a strip of meadow-ground, through which 
flows a large brook. Near the entrance of the valley 
is a small chapel for the neighbouring peasantry; 
and towards its head are seen many conspicuous rocks, 
one of which, on the right, called Crowbarrow, or 
B ac kb arrow, has a grand appearance. After wet 
weather, cascades are seen tumbling down the heicrhts 
in various directions. Many of the farm-houses and 
cottages in this dale would form pretty subjects for 
the artist. 

Great quantities of blue slate are obtained in Long 
Sleddale. The tourist, on approaching the quarries, 
may perhaps deem it worth while to turn a little out 
of the way in order to visit them. They are very easy 
of access, as the levels made for the conveyance of the 



134 SHAP ABBEY. 

slate are not so hilly as in some other places. On 
ascending from the quarries there is a fine retrospec- 
tive view of Long Sleddale, with Lancaster Sands in 
the distance. 

The tourist then passes Sadgill Bridge, and some 
distance beyond it sees on the left the road which 
descends from Kentmere Tarn to Hawes Water. 
From the junction of the two roads to Chapel Hill 
it is about a mile. 



6. From KENDAL to PENRITH. 

Miles. 
Kendal to Demmings ....... 10 

Demmings to Shap ....... 6 

Shap to Lowther Bridge 8 J 

Lowther Bridge to Eamont Bridge . \ 

Eamont Bridge to Penrith 1 

26J 

Shap is a small market-town of Westmorland, with 
about 1061 inhabitants. It is situated at a short dis- 
tance from the source of the Lowther. Inns, the 
Greyhound and the King's Arms, 

About a mile distant are the remains of Shap or 
Heppe Abbey, which was erected in the reign of 
King John. The ruins are inconsiderable, but pic- 
turesque. Near them are a number of upright stones, 
which appear to have formed a Druidical temple. 



135 



7. From KENDAL to ULVERSTONE. 

Miles. 
Kendal to Crossthwaite Green. .... 5 

Crossthwaite Green to Stavely 6 

Stavely to Ulverstone 8 

19 

About a mile and a half from Kendal, on the road 
towards Crossthwaite Green, is Scout-Scar, a high 
rock, on which is a terrace, about a mile in length, 
facing the west, and commanding a fine view. 



8. From KESWICK to BUTTERMERE, 
CRUMMOCK WATER, LOWES WATER, 
ENNERDALE WATER, and WAST WATER, 

IN A CARRIAGE IN THREE DAYS. 

Miles. 
Keswick to Buttermere, by Vale of Newlands . 9 

Buttermere to Scale Hill 4 

Scale Hill to Lowes Water 2 

Lowes Water to Lamplugh 4 

Lamplugh to Ennerdale Bridge 3 

Ennerdale Bridge to Calder Bridge . • . . 7 

First day 29 

Calder Bridge to Gosforth 3 

Gosforth to Strands ........ 4 

Strands, along the north side of Wast Water . 6 
Return to Calder Bridge .13 

Second day ..... .26 

Return to Keswick, Third day 29 



136 DACRE CASTLE. 

From Buttermere the tourist mav visit Scale Force, 
on the side of Crummock Water. 



9. From KESWICK to ULLSWATER and 

PENRITH, by Dacre. 

Miles. 
Keswick to Threlkeld 4 

Threlkeld to Penruddock 7£ 

Penruddock to Dacre 3 

Dacre to Pooley Bridge 3 

Pooley Bridge to Penrith 6 

23£ 

Dacre Castle is a building of considerable antiquity, 
in a tolerably perfect state. It was for ages the baro- 
nial seat of the Dacre family. The Church is at a 
short distance. 
Or, 

Miles. 
Pooley Bridge to Lowther 5 

Lowther to Peniith 5 

10 



10. From KESWICK to ULLSWATER and 
PENRITH, by Patterdale. 

Miles. 
Keswick to Threlkeld . 4 

Threlkeld to Beckses 7 

Beckses to Gowbarrow Park 6 

Gowbarrow Park to Patterdale 5 

Patterdale to Pooley Bridge 9 

Pooley Bridge to Penrith 6 

37 



137 



11. From LANCASTER to KENDAL, by Bolton 

le Sands. 

Miles. 
Lancaster to Bolton by the Sands . . 4 

Bolton to Camforth 2 

Carnforth to Millthorpe 8 

Millthorpe to Levens 2 

Levens to Sizergh 1 J 

Sizergh to Kendal 3£ 

On leaving Lancaster, the road crosses the Lune, and, 
about a mile from the town, passes over the Lancaster 
Canal. 

Bolton by the Sands, is so called from its situ- 
tion near the Lancaster Sands. Near it the tourist 
will obtain fine views of Morecambe Bay and the 
surrounding mountains. 

Carnforth. About two miles from this village is 
Dunald Mill Hole, a subterranean cavern, resem- 
bling those of Derbyshire. A brook runs in at its 
mouth, forming several pretty cascades, and continues 
its course under the mountain as far as Carnforth. 
Persons may descend into this cave, and follow the 
stream for some distance. The sides and roof are 
adorned with curious petrifactions. 

Millthorpe, or Milnthorpe, is a small market- 
town, with 1509 inhabitants. It is the only sea-port 
in Westmorland having the advantage of the tide, 
which flows from the Kent up the Betha. The prin- 
cipal shipping business consists in the conveyance of 



138 KENDAL. 

goods to Liverpool, Glasgow, and London. Inn, the 
Cross Keys, 

At Levens, the tourist crosses the Kent. This 
river takes its rise in the Vale of Kentmere, about four- 
teen miles north of Kendal, where small springs issue 
from the mountains which surround the dale, and are 
collected in a small lake or mere, whence the name of 
Kentmere is derived. From this lake proceeds the 
river Kent, which, being joined by the rivers of Apple- 
thwaite, Long Sleddale, and Grayrigg, becomes a 
powerful stream when it arrives near Kendal, where 
it is employed in giving motion to several mills. As 
it descends southward towards Levens, its banks are 
ornamented by beautiful woods and rich grounds, 
which afford a variety of delightful walks and pic- 
turesque scenery. The river abounds with excellent 
trout. Levens Hall, the property of the Honoura- 
ble Mr. Howard, is a charming residence, surrounded 
by a park, through which there is a beautiful walk to 
Kendal. This mansion was built in the reign of 
Elizabeth. It was the ancient seat of the Belling- 
hams. 

Sizergh Hall, the family-seat of the Stricklands, is 
a fine specimen of the ancient castellated hall, and is 
surrounded by splendid woods. 

KENDAL. 

Kendal, or Kirkby in Kendal, (the church in the vale 
of Ken J is the largest town in Westmorland. It is 
situated in a pleasant valley on the banks of the Ken 
or Kent, and contains about 10,015 inhabitants. It 
returns one member. The principal street is about a 



CASTLELAW HILL. 139 

mile in length. The houses are all built of stone, and 
roofed with blue slates. 

The church is a spacious Gothic structure, with a 
square tower, containing ten bells. It has three 
chapels, memorials of the ancient dignity of three 
neighbouring families, the Bellinghams, Stricklands, 
and Parrs. On a brass plate before the communion- 
table is the following very curious inscription, in me- 
mory of the Rev. R. Tirer, the vicar of Kendal, who 
died in 1627. It was written by himself: — 

London bred me, Westminster fed me, 
Cambridge sped me, my Sister wed me, 
Study taught me, Living sought me, 
Learning brought me, Kendal caught me, 
Labour pressed me, Sickness distressed me, 
Death oppressed me, and Grave possessed me, 
God first gave me, Christ did save me, 
Earth did crave me, and heaven would have me. 

There are also monuments in honour of Judge 
Wilson and Romney the painter. 

Upon a hill on the east side of the river are the 
remains of the castle, beautifully situated, and com- 
manding a fine prospect. It is supposed to occupy 
the site of a Roman fort. This castle formerly be- 
longing to the Parr family, and was the birth-place of 
Catharine, the last queen of Henry VIII. 

On the western side of the town is Castlelaw Hill, 
an artificial mount, about 30 feet in height, supposed 
by some to be of Saxon, and by others of Roman 
origin. On its summit is an obelisk, erected in 1 788, by 
the inhabitants of Kendal, to commemorate the Glo- 
rious Revolution of 1688. This hill was probably one 
of those on which justice was formerly administered. 



140 KENDAL. 

Mr. Todhunter's Museum is another object worthy 
of the tourist's attention. It contains specimens of 
minerals and vegetables found in Cumberland and 
Westmorland, as well as a collection of shells. 

The free school was founded in 1525, by Adam 
Pennyngton, and rebuilt in 1592. 

Kendal has long been noted for its manufacture of 
coarse woollens, called Kendal cottons, linseys, serges, 
druggets, knit worsted stockings, hats, and leather. 
The manufacture of finer articles, such as fancy waist- 
coats, has also been introduced ; and the marble ob- 
tained in the vicinity is cut and polished here. 

The canal opened between Lancaster and Kendal 
in 1819, enables the town to communicate with the 
principal rivers and towns of Lancashire, Yorkshire, 
and other parts of England. 

Kendal is a corporate town, governed by a mayor, 
12 aldermen, and 20 burgesses. It has a well-sup- 
plied market, held on Saturday; and two good inns, 
the King's Arms, and the Commercial Inn. 

From Kendal there is a stage-coach every morning, 
except Sunday, passing through Ambleside and Kes- 
wick to Whitehaven. 



141 



12. From LANCASTER to KENDAL, by 

Burton. 

Miles. 
Lancaster to Burton 11 

Burton to Kendal 11 

22 

Burton is a small town of Westmorland, with about 
733 inhabitants. Inns, the King's Arms, and the 
Royal Oak. 



13. From LANCASTER to KENDAL, by 
Kirkby Lonsdale. 

Miles. 
Lancaster to Hornby 9 

Hornby to Kirkby Lonsdale .... 8 

Kirkby Lonsdale to Kendal . . . . 12 

29 

From a spot on the south side of the road,, three 
miles beyond Lancaster, there is a fine view of the 
valley of the Lune, with Ingleborough towering over 
its head. 

Hornby, in Lancashire, is situated on the Lune. 
About half a mile distant is Hornby Castle, which 
once belonged to the Barons Mounteagle, in allusion 
to whom one of its towers is surmounted by the figure 
of an eagle. This castle commands a fine view. 

Kirkby Lonsdale, in Westmorland, is a small but 
neat town, with about 1686 inhabitants. It is situated 
on the Lune, over which is an ancient but elegant 



142 



KIRKBY LONSDALE. 



bridge. The church is old, and the churchyard is 
celebrated for its commanding situation : it affords a 
fine view of the valley of the Lune. The free-school 
was founded in 1591, and rebuilt in 1628. Here also 
are several mills, worked by a brook, the waters of 
which give motion to seven wheels, placed one above 
another. In the neighbourhood of Kirkby Lonsdale 
is Whittington Hall, a fine stone mansion, the seat of 
T. Green, Esq., M.P. 

Inns, the Rose and Crown, and the Green Dragon, 



14. 



From LANCASTER to ULVERSTONE, 

avoiding the Sands. 



Lancaster to Millthorpe, by the New Road 

Millthorpe to Levens 

Levens to Witherslack . 

Witherslack to Newton 

Newton to Newby Bridge 

Newby Bridge to Bouth 

Bouth to Penny Bridge 

Penny Bridge to Ulverstone 



Miles. 
14 

2 

4 

4 

3 

3 

2 

4 

36 



This route abounds with interesting landscapes, and 
commands several fine views of the sea. 



143 



15. From PENRITH to CARLISLE. 

Miles. 
Penrith to Plumpton Wall .... 5 

Plumpton Wall to High Hesket . . . 4J 

High Hesket to Carleton 6J 

Carleton to Carlisle 2\ 



18 

On the left of Plumpton are the ruins of Old Pen- 
rith, formerly a Roman station. Traces of the fort 
are still visible. It was 168 paces from south to 
north, and 110 from east to west. It is situated about 
200 yards from the river Peterill. Some have sup- 
posed that it was this station which was called Pe- 
triana. The Roman road leading to Pict's Wall took 
the same direction as the present road. 

High Hesket is a large village, half-way between 
Penrith and Carlisle. On its east side is Tarn Wad- 
ling, a lake covering about a hundred acres of land. 
On the top of an eminence, on the N. E. side of this 
lake, are the ruins of a fortress, called Castle Hewins, 
from which there is a good view. The period at 
which this building was erected is unknown. 

CARLISLE, 

the capital of Cumberland, is an ancient city, plea- 
santly situated amidst extensive and fertile meadows, 
watered by the Eden, the Caldew, and the Peteril, 
which nearly surround it. It was a Roman station, 
and an important military post during the wars be- 
tween the Scotch and the English. The streets are 
spacious and well-built, and there are about 20,006 
inhabitants. It returns two members. 



144 CARLISLE. 

The Castle is said to have been originally built 
towards the end of the seventh century. Some por- 
tions of it, erected in the reign of William II., still 
remain. In the apartments of this castle Mary Queen 
of Scots was confined. 

The Court-houses at the south entrance of the city 
give it a majestic appearance. They were erected in 
1810, from designs by Smirke, and are adorned with 
two noble circular towers, erected on the site of similar 
ones which formerly defended the city-gate. Conti- 
guous to them is the gaol. 

The Cathedral is a venerable structure, partly of 
Saxon and partly of Gothic architecture. The choir, 
erected in the reigns of Edward III. and Richard II., 
is a fine specimen of the pointed style. On the 
screens of the aisles are some paintings representing 
events in the legendary histories of St, Anthony and 
St. Augustine. Here Dr. Paley was buried. 

The bridge over the Eden is a handsome structure, 
built in 1817. 

Carlisle has improved very much in wealth and 
population during the last century, and now holds a 
respectable rank among the trading towns. It has 
manufactures of cotton articles, printed linens, hats, 
whips, leather, fish-hooks, and soap. 

From Carlisle there is a ship-canal to the Solway 
Frith, by means of which the commerce of the city is 
much facilitated. The market-days are Wednesday 
and Saturday. 

The principal Inns are the Bush, the Blue Bell, 
and the Coffee House. 



145 



16. From PENRITH to HAWES WATER, 

and return bv Pooley Bridge. 

Miles. 

Penrith to Askham 5 

Askham, by Bampton, to Hawes Water ... 7 
Hawes Water, by Bampton, to Butterwick . . 4 
Butterwick, over Dovack Moor, to Pooley Bridge 5 
Pooley Bridge, by Dalemain, to Penrith. . . 6 

27 

The route across Dovack Moor is only practicable 
on horseback or on foot. 



17. From POOLEY BRIDGE to HAWES 

WATER. 

Pooley Bridge to Askham 3 

Askham to Hawes Water 7 

Return to Pooley Bridge 10 

20 

This route will be found available for those persons 
who wish to go in a carriage from Pooley Bridge to 
Hawes Water. 



18. From ULVERSTONE to BOWNESS. 

Ulverstone to Newby Bridge 9 

Newby Bridge to Bowness 8 

17 

H 



146 WHITEHAVEN. 

About three miles from Ulverstone the road crosses 
the river Crake, near its junction with the Leven ; and 
three miles farther, passes a gunpowder-manufactory. 

At Backbarrow, a mile farther, are iron-works 
and a cotton- factory. Here the road passes over the 
Leven . 

Newby Bridge crosses the Leven just at its egress 
from Windermere. Inn : The Swan ; where boats, 
post-horses, and a chaise may be hired. This bridge 
is delightfully situated at the foot of a wooded hill of 
considerable elevation. The Leven is here a noble 
stream, and from this place, in a course of four miles, 
winds between lofty side-screens to the river Crake on 
Leven Sands. It is a good stream for fly-fishing. 

The tourist then proceeds to Bowness, the road com- 
manding fine views of Windermere and of the neigh- 
bouring mountains. 



19. Prom WHITEHAVEN to KESWICK. 

Miles. 

Whitehaven to Cockermouth . . . . ,14 
Cockermouth to Keswick, by the New Road . 13 

27 

This and the following route are given for the 
benefit of travellers who arrive at the lake district by 
the steam-packets which proceed from Liverpool to 
Workington and Whitehaven. 

Whitehaven is a handsome and well-built town 
of Cumberland, with about 11,393 inhabitants. It 
returns one member. During the last two centuries 



COCKERMOUTH. 147 

it has risen into importance in consequence of its 
vicinity to the collieries belonging to the Lowther fa- 
mily. The pits are the deepest that have hitherto been 
worked, and they produce annually about 90,000 
chaldrons of coals. The harbour is defended by stone 
piers. The Earl of Lonsdale has a handsome man- 
sion here, called the Castle. 

The pier, which is built of stone, is of recent erection, 
and is one of the finest in England. 

Whitehaven has three Episcopal chapels, several 
meeting-houses and charitable institutions, a mar- 
ket-house, built from a design by Smirke, and a 
theatre. Its chief manufactures are sailcloth and 
rope. The Countess of Lonsdale steamer leaves 
Whitehaven for Liverpool several times a week. 
Ships are also built here. The market is held on 
Tuesday. 

Inns. The Black Lion, the George, the Globe, the 
King's Arms. 

Cocke rmouth, in Cumberland, containing 4,536 
inhabitants, derives its name from its situation at the 
mouth of the Cocker, which here falls into the Der- 
went. The streets are spacious, though irregular, but 
many of the houses are neatly built. The chief ma- 
nufactures are hats, coarse woollens, shalloons, and 
coarse linens. 

On the top of an artificial mount are the ruins of 
an ancient castle, originally the baronial residence 
of the Lords of Allerdale ; and, during the civil wars, 
garrisoned for Charles I Inns : the Globe, the Sun. 

h2 



143 



20. From WORKINGTON to KESWICK. 

Miles. 
Workington to Cockermouth . • . .83 

Cockermouth to Keswick, by New Road . 13 



21* 



Workington is a considerable town of Cumberland, 
with 6,415 inhabitants. It is situated on the south 
bank of the Derwent, which flows into the sea about 
a mile distant. It carries on a considerable trade in 
the export of coals to Ireland, the Baltic, &c. ; and 
employs several vessels in the salmon fishery. 

The old part of the town is narrow and irregular, 
but the modern part is well laid out, and contains 
several good public buildings. In the church is an 
altar-piece, representing the Descent from the Cross. 
Workington has several meeting-houses, a theatre, 
and assembly-rooms. 

On the east side of the town is Workington Hall, 
the manor-house of the Curwen family. It is remark- 
able as having afforded an asylum to Mary Queen of 
Scots when she landed at Workington. The room in 
which she slept is still denominated the Queen's 
chamber ; but the house has undergone various al- 
terations during the last century. 

Inns. The Dragon, the King's Arms. 



TABLE OF THE HEIGHTS 

OF 

MOUNTAINS AND LAKES 

IN 

LANCASHIRE, WESTMORLAND, AND CUMBERLAND, 

TAKEN FROM THE LEVEL OF THE SEA. 



According to 

Mr. Dalton. Mr. Otley. 

Feet. Feet. 

Scawfell Pikes 3160 

Scawfell 3240 3100 

Helvellyn* 3210 3070 

Skiddaw 3180 3022 

Great Gabel, or Gavel 2925 

Bow Fell, in Langdale .... 3090 2911 

Rydal Head 3090 

Fairfield 2950 

Cross Fell 2901 

Pillar 2893 

Saddleback 2787 

Grasmere orGrassmoor, nearCrum-1 9055 2756 

mock Water J 

Red Pike, near Buttermere . . . 2850 

Kentmere High Street .... 2736 2700 

Grisedale Pike 2580 



* 



According to Colonel Mudge, 3,055 feet. 



150 TABLE OF HEIGHTS. 

According to 

Mr. Dalton. Mr. Otley. 

Feet. Feet. 

Coniston Old Man 2580 2577 

Wharnside, near Dent .... 2475 
Hill Bell, north-west of Kendal . • 2436 
Harrison Stickle, or Langdale Pikes . 2400 

Carrock, West Pike, Cold Beck . . 2232 2110 
Knoutberry Hill, near Dent . . . 2184 

Causey Pike 2030 

Goat Scar, summit of road from Hawesl 10 qq 

Water to Kendal .... J 

Black Combe 1919 

Lord's Seat 1728 

Pendale Hill 1644 

Wansfell 1590 

Whinfell Beacon, north-east of Kendal 1500 

Cat Bell 1448 

Rivington Pike, between Chorley a ndK. 20o 

Bolton J 

Latrigg . , . 1160 

Benson-knot, near Kendal . . . 1098 
Penrith Beacon ...... 1020 

Kendal Fell . • 648 

Town of Kendal 138 

LAKES. 

According to 

Mr. Dalton. 

Feet 

Hawes Water 714 

Leathes Water 546 

Ullswater 318 

Crummock Water 273 

Derwent Water 228 

Bassenthwaite Water 210 



TABLE OF HEIGHTS. 151 

According to 

Mr. Dalton. 

Feet. 

Esthwaite Water 198 

Grasmere Water 180 

Rydal Water 156 

Windermere Water 108 

In other Parts. 

Mont Blanc, Switzerland 15,662 

Mount Etna, Sicily 11,000 

Ben Nevis, Scotland 4370 

Mount Vesuvius, Italy 3600 

Snowdon, Wales 3571 

Ben Lomond, Scotland 3262 



152 



PLAN of a TOUR to the LAKES from 
LANCASTER. 

Miles. 

Lancaster, across the Sands, to Ulverstone . • .21 

Or by Milthorpe, avoiding the Sands 36 

Ulverstone to Furness Abbey, and return . . «, 12 

Ulverstone to Coniston Water Head 14 J 

Coniston Water Head, across Windermere to Bowness 8 j 

Bowness to Ambleside 6 

Or from Coniston Waterhead direct to Ambleside . 7-| 
Windermere must then be visited from Ambleside. 

Ambleside to Langdale, and return 18 

Ambleside to Brothers' Water, and return ... 13 
Ambleside, by Rydal, Grasmere, and Thirlmere, to 

Keswick 16 

Ascent of Skiddaw, and return . ...... 12 

Keswick to Borrowdale, and round Derwent Water . 12 

Keswick, round Bassenthwaite Water 18 

Keswick, by Scale Hill, to Crummock Water and 

Buttermere 16 

Or, if on horseback or walking, the tourist may go 
through Borrowdale and Gatesgarth Dale to Butter- 
mere and Crummock Water, returning through the 
Vale of Newlands 23 

Buttermere, by Vale of Newlands, to Keswick . . 9 
Keswick, by Stye Head and Wast Water, to Calder 

Bridge (on horseback) * 27 

Calder Bridge, by Ennerdale Water, Lowes Water, 

Buttermere, and Vale of Newlands to Keswick . 29 
Keswick to Penrith 18 

Or Keswick to Pooley Bridge at the foot of Ullswater. \7\ 
And thence to Lowther Castle and Penrith ... 10 
Penrith to Ullswater and Patterdale, and return . . 30 



PLAN OF A TOUR. 153 

Miles. 

Penrith to Lowther Castle and Hawes Water, and 

return 24 

Penrith to Kendal 26£ 

Kendal, by Levens and Sizergh, to Lancaster . . 20J 



PLAN of a TOUR from KENDAL. 

Kendal to Ulverstone 19 

Thence to Coniston and the other lakes as in the 

preceding tour, or, 

Kendal to Bowness 9 

Bowness, across Windermere to Coniston Water Head 8J 

Coniston Water Head to Ulverstone 14J 

Ulverstone to Furness Abbey, and return . . ,12 

Ulverstone to Coniston Water Head 14 \ 

Coniston Water Head to Ambleside 7f 

Thence to the other lakes, as in the preceding 

tour, or, 
Ambleside, over Kirkstone to Ullswater and Penrith 25 
Thence to the other lakes, as in the following tour. 



PLAN of a TOUR from PENRITH. 

Penrith to Lowther Castle and Hawes Water, and 
return 24 

Penrith to Ullswater and Patterdale 15 

Patterdale to Keswick 22 

Thence to Derwent Water, Skiddaw, Borrowdale, 
Bassenthwaite, Buttermere, Crummock Water, 
Lowes Water, Wast Water, and the Vale of New- 
lands, as in the tour from Lancaster. 



154 PLAN OF A TOUR. 

Miles. 

Keswick to Ambleside, by Thirlmere, Grasmere, and 

Rydal 16 

Ambleside to Langdale, and return 18 

Ambleside to Brothers' Water, and return . . .13 

Ambleside to Bowness 6 

Bowness, across Windermere to Goniston Water Head 8f- 

Coniston Water Head to Ulverstone 14 J 

Ulverstone to Furness Abbey, and return . . .12 

Ulverstone, across the Sands to Lancaster . . 21 

Or by Millthorpe avoiding the Sands 36 



GLOSSARY, 



OK 



Explanation of Terms used in the vicinity of the Lakes, either by them- 
selves or in conjiexion with other words. 



Barrow, a term usually designating artificial, but here 

applied to natural hills. 
Beck, a rivulet or brook running along the bottom of a 

vale, and receiving gills. 
Cam, the comb or crest of a mountain. 
Coom, or Cove, a hollow scooped out of the side of a 

mountain. 
Dod, a small mountain on the side of a larger one, with a 

round head. 
Dore, or Door, a cleft or opening between two perpen- 
dicular rocks. 
Fell, a hill. 
Gill, or Ghyll, a mountain stream confined between steep 

banks, and descending rapidly. 
Holm, or Holme, an island. 
How, a small hill rising in a valley. 
Lough, a lake. 

Man, a pile or obelisk of stones upon the top of a hill. 
Mere, a lake. 
Neese, or Nose, a steep ridge descending from the top of a 

mountain. 
Rigg, a ridge or hill. 
Scar, a brow of naked rocks. 
Screes, loose stones, or fragments of rock, resting upon a 

steep declivity, and adhering to it so slightly 

that the least agitation of any part of them puts 

the whole in motion. 
SyJce, a very small stream. 
Tar ji, a small lake. 



INDEX. 



Airey, or Ara Force, 122. 
Allithwaite, 6, 7. 
Ambleside, 35, 38, 51, 129, 131. 
— — Excursions from, 47, 

48, 49, 50. 
Armathwaite Hall, 85. 
Arthur's Round Table, 113. 
Askham, 126,145. 

Backbarrow, 133, 146. 
Bampton, 126,145. 
Barrow Cascade, 78. 

House, 78, 87. 

Bassenthwaite Halls, 85. 

Water, 84. 

Beau Thorn, 120. 
Beckses, 136. 
Beck Wythop, 86. 
Belle Isle, 27. 
Belmont, 21. 
Berkshire Island, 29. 
Birkrigg, 14. 
Black Lead Mines, 99. 
Blea Tarn, 41, 44, 72. 
Blebba Tarn, 90. 
BlelhamTarn,20. 
Bolton by the Sands, 137. 
Bonning Yate, 132. 
Borrowdale, 78, 80, 87, 88. 

— Hawse, 88. 

Borwick, 131. 
Bouth, 142. 
Bowder Crag, 87. 

Stone, 78, 81,87, 98. 

Bowness,15,30,35, 131, 132,145. 
Braidness, 85. 
Braithwaite, 95. 
Brathay Bridge, 42. 

The, 25. 

Broad Water, 84. 
Broader Water, 130. 



Brothers' Water, 129, 130. 
Brougham Castle, 114. 

Hall, 114. 

Burtness Tarn, 90. 
Burton, 141. 
Buttermere Hawse, 91. 

Mary of, 92. 

Moss, 90. 

— Village of, 87,90,95, 



135. 



Water, 90, 95,98. 



Butterwick, 126, 145. 

Caer Mot, 86. 
Calder Abbey, 105. 

Bridge, 98, 105, 135. 

Calgarth Park, 35. 
Carleton, 143. 
Carlisle, 143. 
Carnforth, 137. 
Cartmel, 7. 
Castle Crag, 81, 87. 

Inn, 84, 85. 

• Rigg, 51, 62. 

Castlehead Seat, 7. 

near Keswick, 70. 

Cat Rag, 30. 

Chapel Hill, 127, 133, 134. 

■ Island, 8. 

Clappergate, 42. 
Clark's Leap, 60. 
Clay Barrow, 132. 
Clifton Hall, 114. 
Cockermouth, 146, 147, 148. 
Cockshot Hill, 70. 
Colwith Bridge, 43. 

Force, 41,43. 

Conishead Priory, 9. 
Coniston Water, 17, 131. 

Waterhead, 15, 16, 131. 

Countess's Pillar, 113, 114. 



INDEX. 



157 



Croft Lodge, 42. 

Cromack Water, see Cmmmock. 

Crossthwaite Church, 63. 

— - Green, 135. 

Crowbarrow, 133. 

Crowe- holme, 29. 

Crow-Park, 70. 

Crummock Water, 87, 91, 95,98, 

135. 
Curwen's Island, 27. 

Dacre, 136. 

Castle, 136. 

Dalemain, 116,145. 
Dalton, 11. 
Dearbought Hill, 54. 
Demming:s, 134. 
Derwent Isle, 67. 

The, 82. 

Water, 64, 72, 78. 

Dictis, 38. 
Dovack Moor, 145. 
Druids' Temple, 73, 
Dunald Mill Hole, 137. 
Dungeon Gill, 41, 46. 
Dunmallet or Dunmallard Hill, 

117. 
Dunmel or Dunmail Raise, 51,56. 

Eagle Crag, 88. 

Eamont Bridge, 113, 12G, 134. 

Easedale Tarn, 55. 

Easthwaite Water, 20. 

Elleray. 132. 

Elter W r ater, 43. 

Hall, 43. 

Ennerdale Bridge, 98, 106, 135. 

Wrater, 98,107, 135. 

Esthwaite Lodge, 21. 

Water, 20. 

Eusemere, 116. 

Fairfield, 49. 

Ferry House, 15, 22, 131. 

Point, 23. 

Floating Islands, 21, 68. 
Flookboro', 6, 8. 
Friar Crag, 70. 
Furness Abbey, 12. 

Gatesgarth, 87, 89. 



Gatesgarth Dale, 89. 
Giant's Cave, 114. 
Gillerthwaite, 108. 
Glencoyne or Glencoin, 122. 
Glenridding, 123. 
Glossary, 155. 
Gosforth, 98, 105, 135. 
Gowbarrow Park, 116, 121, 129, 

136. 
Gowder Crag, 79. 
Grange, 78, 80, 87, 98. 
Grasmere, 47, 48, 51, 53. 
View of, from Dunmel 

Raise, 56. 
Grass-holme, 29. 
Graydale Tarn, 124. 
Graystoke Castle, 110. 
Great Island, 27. 
Greta Hall, 64. 
Grisedale Tarn, 124. 
Groves, 39. 

Halsteads, 121. 

Harrison Stickle, 45. 

Harrop Tarn, 58. 

Harrow Farm House, 24. 

Hartley Hill, 90. 

Hartshope, 130. 

Hassness, 90. 

Hawcoat, 13. 

Hawes Water, 126,133, 145. 

Hawkshead, 15. 19, 131. 

■ Hall, 20. 

Hawse, The, 93. 
Helm Crag, 54. 
Helvellyn, 58. 
Hen-holme, 29. 
Heppe Abbey, 134. 
Hest Bank, 6. 
High Close Farm, 46. 

Hesket, 143. 

Holker Hall, 8. 
Honister Crag, 87,88. 
Hornby. 141. 
How Hall, 107. 

Ings, 131. 
Ivy Crag, 48. 

Kendal, 131, 132, 133, 134, 135, 
137,138, 141. 



158 



INDEX. 



Kent's Bank, 6, 7. 
Keskadale, 93. 

Keswick, 51, 62, 78, 84, 87, 95, 
98,110, 135, 136, 146,148. 

Excursions from, 72. 

Kirkby Lonsdale, 141. 
Kirkstone, 37, 129. 

Lady-holme, 29. 
Lake Bank, 21. 
Lakes, height of, 149. 

time for visiting the, 1. 

Lamplugh, 98, 108, 135. 

Cross, 108. 

Lancaster, 3, 4, 6, 137, 141, 142. 

Sands, 6. 

Langdale, 41. 

Chapel, 46. 

Tarn, 44, 

Latrigg, 70. 
Leathes Water, 59. 
Legberthwaite, 60. 
Lemon House, 120. 
Leven Sands, 6, 8. 
Levens,137, 138, 142. 

Hall, 138. 

Levers Water, 19. 

Lingholmes, 67. 

Long Meg and her Daughters, 

114. 

Sleddale, 133. 

Lord's Island, 66. 
Lorton, 95. 

Vale of, 95. 

Loughrigg Fell, 47,48. 

Tarn, 48. 

Lowdore, 78, 87, 98. 
Lowes Water, 98, 108, 135. 
Lowick Bridge, 15. 

Chapel, 15. 

Hall, 15. 

Lowther Bridge, 113, 134, 136. 

Castle, 115. 

Water, 19. 

Low Wood Inn, 35, 131. 
Excursions from, 

36. 
Lyulph's Tower, 121. 

Maiden Castle, 120. 
Man Mountain, 18. 



Mardale Green, 127. 
Mary of Buttermere, 92. 
Mayburgh, or May borough, 113. 
Mill Beck, 45. 
Millthorpe, 137, 142. 
Mountains, height of, 149. 

Nab Scar, 49. 

Newby Bridge, 142, 145, 146. 

Newlands, Vale of. 87, 94, 95. 

Newton, 142. 

Nibthwaite, 15. 

Old Church, 120. 
Old Man, 18. 
Orrest Head, 131. 
Otter Isle, 67. 
Ouse Bridge, 86. 

Patterdale, 116, 123, 129, 136, 

143. 

Hall, 123. 

Peel Island, 17. 

Wyke, 84, 86. 

Penny Bridge, 142. 

Penrith, 110, 113, 116, 126, 129, 

134, 136, 145. 

Environs of, 1 12. 

Penruddock, 110, 136. 
Pikes, The, 102. 
Pincushion Hill, 49. 
Plumpton Wall, 143. 
Pocklington's Island, 67. 
Ponsonby Hall, 105. 
PooleyBridge,116, 129, 136, 145, 
Porting Scales, 78, 82/87. 

Quakers' Meeting House, 132. 

Rampsholme (Derwent Water), 
67. 

(Windermere), 29, 

Ramsbach Lodge, 120. 
Rattle Gill, 40. 
Rawlinson's Nab, 29. 
Rayrigg, 34. 

Hall, 34. 

Rempsbeck Lodge, 120. 
Rossthwaite, 87, 98. 
Rothay, The, 25. 
Rough-holme, 29. 



INDEX. 



159 



Round Knott, 49. 
Rydal Hall, 49, 51. 

Head, 52. 

Mount, 49, 52. 

Village, 51. 

Water, 49, 51, 53. 

Saddleback, 77, 1 10. 
Sadgill Bridge, 133, 134. 
St. Herbert's Island, 67. 
St. John's Vale, 73, 110. 
Sands, The, 6. 
Sawrey, 15, 21, 131. 
Scale Force, 92, 136. 

Hill, 95, 96,98, 135. 

Scandale Beck, 41. 
Scareness, 85. 
Scaw Fell, 102. 
Scout Scar, 135. 
Screes, The, 104. 
Seatallor, 87, 88, 98. 
Seathwaite, 98, 99. 
Shap, 134. 
Shepherd's Crag, 79. 
Sizergh, 137, 138. 
Skelgill, 36. 
Skelwith Bridge, 41, 43. 

Force, 43. 

Skiddaw, 74. 

Smallthwaite Bridge, 51,61. 
Soulby Fell, 120. 
Sour Milk Gill, 55, 90. 
Southey, R-, Esq., 64. 
Sparkling Tarn, 101. 
Sprinkling Tarn, 102. 
Stanger, 96. 
Station House, 23. 
Stavely, 131, 135. 
Stickle Tarn, 45. 
Stockgill Force, 39. 
Stockley Bridge, 101. 
Stonethwaite, 87, 88. 
Storrs Hall, 30. 
Strands, 98, 105, 135. 
Stybarrow Crag, 122. 
Stye Head, 98, 101. 

Tarn, 101. 

Swarth Fell, 120. 
Swarthmoor Hall, 10. 

Taylor's Gill, 101. 



Thirlraere,51,59. 
Thrang Crag, 46. 
Threlkeld, 110, 136. 
Thurston Water, 17. 
Tilberthwaite, 16,49. 
Time for visiting Lakes, 1 . 
Tours, Plans of, 152, 153, 154. 
Town End, 54. 
Tripotholme, 67. 
Troutbeck, 37. 

Bridge, 35, 131. 

The, 26. 

Ulls or Ulles Water, 116, 117, 

129, 136. 
Ulverstone, 6,9, 11,15, 135, 142, 

145. 

Vicar's Isle, 67. 
Vicarage, near Keswick, 70. 

Wad Mines, 99. 
Wall End, 45. 
Walney Island, 10. 
Wansfell Pike, 49. 
Wastdale Head, 98, 103. 
Wast Water, 98, 104, 135, 
Watch Gate, 133. 
Watendlath, 72. 
Water End, 82. 
Waterfall, Ara, or Airey, 122. 
Barrow, 78. 



- Colwith, 43. 

- Dungeon Gill, 46. 

- Lowdore, 78. 

- Rydal, 52. 

- Scale, 92. 

- Skelwith, 43. 
Stockgill, 39. 



Waterfoot, 120. 
Waterhead (Coniston), 16. 
Water Head (Windermere), 

Watermillock, 120. 
Whinlatter,95. 
Whitehaven, 105,146. 
White Moss Quarry, 52. 
Whitrigs, 10. 
Winandermere, 24. 
Windermere, 24 
Island, 27. 






160 



INDEX. 



Windermere, View of, from Mr. 
Young's Station, 32. 

. from Sta- 
tion House, 23. 

Witherslack, 142. 

Wordsworth, Mr., 44, 52, 54. 

Workington, 148. 

Hall, 148. 



.21 SS 

Wythburn, 51,57. 

Water, 59. 

Wythop Brows, 84. 

Yew Crag, 88, 121. 
Yewdale, 16, 49. 
Young's Station, 32. 



THE END. 






Printed by William Clowes and Sons, Duke Street, Lambeth. 






